Nearly 17 years ago we, two brothers and sister-in-law, set on a trek to Pancha Kedar in Garhwal Himalayas, presently in Uttranchal. Before our trek to Rudranath we needed a porter-guide to carry our food and some luggage and for guiding us to the Rudranath temple. And here at Gopeshwar we found Rajbahadur Sahi as our porter-guide. He assured us that he was well aware of the trek route and we would not have to face any trouble.

Rajbahadur Sahi’s name is still distinctly written in core of my mind. He is a boy of 18, migrated from Nepal in search of some income to support his family in Nepal. He went to school but for poverty could not continue learning. He brings orange from far off villages carrying on his back in a basket and sells them in the local market. With his hard earned money he spends something to mitigate hunger, sleeps on the terrace of a Shiva temple, suffering the freezing Himalayan wind throughout the year. Every year he goes to Nepal to meet his brothers and sisters, takes with him some garments for them and give his little income to them. It takes him 5/6 days walk to reach his village in a remote area.

So we started our pilgrimage trek very early morning. We all had rucksack on our back and Rajbahadur had a large load. Rudranath, our present destination, is one of the five legendary shrine built by the Pandavas of epic Mahabharata. From epic we know that after Kurukshetra war Pandavas persuaded Lord Siva for His blessing to get rid of sin they committed killing their relatives. Siva reluctant to meet them took the form of a bull. Pandavas identifying the bull and hold His mukh or face at Rudranath and from then Lord Siva is worshiped here.

It is a 22 km trek from Gopeshwar, at a height of 2,286 meters above sea level. Beside we had to cross Naola pass at the height of 14000 feet and we would return via Anushua crossing a dense forest. It was not possible by us to cover 22 kilometers in one day, so Rajbahadur told us that there was a Panar cave some 16 kilometers away en route, and we would pass the night there.

Reaching Naola pass was a very tough and steep trek. We were sweating and all took rest very often. Rajbahadur frequently asked us if we felt very exhausted some load might be transferred to his sack. He is truly a very gracious and hardworking boy. His innocent smiling face helped us to forget all our hardship. After a long steep, tiring trek when we reached Panar cave. It was almost like evening, because all around dark cloud overcastted and it began to drizzle.

A saint stays in this cave and lives on the charity of the devotees. As we entered the cave we found the saint sitting before some burning log. We bowed before him to show our reverence and he blessed us. He was drying some red fruits on fire. In winter when snow covers the whole area, no devotees can reach there, so he lives on these dry fruits.

Rajbahadur said, “ Dada, I have to collect some log for cooking. I am going in the jangle”. To experience the thrill I with my brother accompanied him. Amidst dense fog and cloud we entered into a jungle of rhododendrons. Rahbahadur said, “Even raw branches rhododendrons burn well”. Tiding with his long towel he made a big bundle of log and carried to the cave.

In the evening the holy saint started chanting holy words with ringing of a bell. I was so absorbed that unknowingly I journeyed to a mystic wonderland. I forgot how long I lost myself in this heavenly land. The saint told us, ” Soon I shall leave this place and will go to Muktinath in Nepal, if you go there we will meet again”. After that we together relished the hotchpotch cooked with dal and rice. The holy man himself cooked it and served us. His hospitality is unforgettable.

I could not sleep the night because I discovered the cave is infested with very big rats and they ran over our body whole night. Early next morning we left Panar cave with a broken heart with a hope of meeting the saint in Muktinath.

Along our trek route were flowers laden meadows where herbs, grow in profusion. In the background, in all their glory, are the majestic snow-covered peaks of Nanda Devi, Nanda Ghumti, Hati Parbat, Trishul etc. There was a stream near the Rudranath temple with sparkling water known as Vaitarini (Water of Salvation). Rudranath is a wonderful place to spend time in serenity. The peace and the tranquility that fills the air will absolutely help devotees to enlighten them. In the evening we worshiped at Rudranath temple.

After that I have travelled many places in Himalayas but those days have left indelible marks in my heart.