Come Ramadhan / Ramazan and the highly crowded and fast paced areas of Mumbai, areas which are considered as Muslim dominated pockets, areas like Madan Pura, Sir. J.J. Road, Mohammedali Rd., Bhendi Bazaar, Minara Masjid, Pydhoni etc. go on an overdrive mode. The place comes alive and transforms itself into shopping malls by the day and food courts as the sun sets in. Ramazan has its effects on me too. Right after I break my fast (with a pinch of salt or a date), the gray cells in me go into an overdrive searching that exact flavour that would satiate my growling stomach for the day. Magically all roads leading to my home somehow seem to pass through those lively streets.
Locally known as Bohri Mohalla, the four lanes west of Ebrahim Rehmatulla Rd., Bhendi Bazaar is a wall-less colony of Bombay’s Dawoodi Bohra Muslims. The Bohras are a community known for their soft and peaceful nature as also for their taste for better things in life including of food, hence the four lanes have number of eateries that cater to probably every diet.
Surti Bara Handi Paya is one such place that serves a sumptuous, yet unique meal. Situated near Raudat Tahera, shrine of late Sayedna Taher Saiffuddin (father of present Sayedna), on 12 Gujjar St. off Pakmodia St. the place welcomes you with a sign board reading ’Surti 12 Handi Paya’ and a slogan that goes, ’Paya Khao Healthy Ho Jao’. Surti Bara Handi Paya is run by a Bohra Muslim family, Surti Hafiz Ismail. The place serves the unique delicacy Bara Handi and Saat Handi. The dish is predominantly an Iranian dish, the recipe of which had been given to the forefathers of the present proprietor, by an Iranian cook.
Yeah! Bara Handi and Saat Handi are two elaborate dishes that are prepared by concocting 12 and seven pre-cooked dishes. This concoction includes porridges of oats, lentils (Urad and chick-peas), wheat and barley; pre cooked stews of paya (goat or lamb trotters), pitchhota (goat or lamb tail bones), chotta part (tenderloins, lamb), adla (shoulder, lamb), nalla (bone marrow, goat or lamb) and bheja (brain, goat or lamb) which are cooked over slow flame on a flatbed tandoor in different pots over long hours. That perfect mixing of portions of each obviously derives the taste.
Saat Handi or Bara Handi can be had with Mughlai or Kumachi (both are types of tandoori rotis), Tandoori Paratha or with Lamba Pav (diamond shape naan-breadrolls, a specialty of this area). Whatever your ‘mixture, ’ Saat Handi or Bara Handi, do ensure to add ‘paya’ and ‘pitchotta’ with a generous dumping of bone marrow. The stuff is heavy on spices, but not really hot on chili and the pockets.
The small place has no add-on frills. Uniformed waiters, fancy cutlery, table mats, stack of paper napkins, cushioned seats and sofas, definitely you would not find here. However what you would find here is the welcoming call from the extra loud waiter who will shout your order to the guy at the pot doing the magic concoction and promptly serve your order within seconds. If you intend to hit this spot, make sure it’s a large group, the more the merrier.
Surti Bara Handi Paya is available all year round, during Ramzan tables are also laid out on the street across to accommodate the patrons. A meal for a group of four would be around Rs. 250/- to Rs. 350/-.