Canon EOS 1200D( EOS rebel T5)
The Canon EOS Rebel T5 is a solid entry-level DSLR with a price that will please the budget-conscious. It improves
upon its predecessor, the T3, by upping the HD video
resolution to 1080 x 1920 and the sensor’s resolution to 18
megapixels. The EOS T5 is also outfitted with a 3-inch,
460, 000 dot LCD. Beginners will like the Basic+ control
menu, Creative Auto, and Creative Filters, while more
advanced shooters will appreciate the T5’s manual controls
and customization options. Frequently accessed settings
are available through the camera’s Q-menu, and shooters of
all skill levels will find their way around the T5’s interface
quickly.
-Improved version of Canon 1100D
-It is one of the best entry level Canon DSLRs
-Easy to use
-Easy to handle
-Stylish looks with type leather grip
-Clear pics
-Better blur background
-Also have auto mode for beginners
BATTERY LIFE
-It can capable of capturing around 500 shots in full charge battery
IMAGE QUALITY
The T5’s photo quality ranks as typical for an entry-level
dSLR; in this respect, all APS-C sensor-size cameras at this
price deliver about the same image quality. It does seem to
have a slightly narrower tonal range than other models;
JPEG photos look good up to ISO 400, at which point you’ll
start to see blotchy blacks when lighting get low. That
happens with the D3200, too, but in lower light.
While you can fix it a little bit if you shoot raw, there’s very
little detail there to be had. You can get sharper images by
shooting raw starting at about ISO 400, though. Also note
that you probably won’t be able to see the problem with the
blacks when viewing it in a browser( as I discovered when
trying to put an example together) or on a phone or tablet.
However, if you’re not too picky, you’ll probably be happy
with the photos as high as ISO 3200( though the quality will
depend upon light and scene content) . Beyond that, there’s
a lot of image noise and hot pixels - those white dots you
get in dark images.
Otherwise, colors look appealing at the default settings, but
you can change them if you want something a little more
accurate.
PERFORMANCE
Is the camera fast enough for typical kids-’n’-pets
photography? More or less: generally only if they’re not
moving really fast or really erratically, and if the light’s not
terribly dim. The much older Rebel T3i is about the same
price and delivers identical single-shot speed and better
burst performance. Same goes for the Nikon D3200.
It takes about half a second to power on, focus, and shoot;
typical for Canon’s low-end models and not as slow as
mirrorless competitors, but still not terribly zippy. In
adequate light it’s OK at 0.3-second, but in dim light it’s
quite slow and in practice frequently has trouble focusing
on anything other than complete autofocus where it uses all
the autofocus points. But when you use all the points, you
run the risk of it not focusing where you want.
It actually fares pretty well when it comes to a couple of
consecutive shots, with only about about 0.4-second lag
between shots, either raw or JPEG( at 0.45-second, raw
barely misses rounding down) . The flash recycles
reasonably quickly, with 0.8-second between flash shots.
While the camera can sustain a continuous-shooting rate of
3.1 frames per second for an effectively unlimited number
of JPEG images but only 6 when shooting raw, the Servo AI
mode( Canon’s tracking autofocus, for focusing on moving
subjects) and autofocus system delivers more misses than
hits in a lot of situations.
Live View remains almost unusably slow, just like the old
days. I did some casual performance testing, and it takes
between 3.5 and 5 seconds to focus and shoot in Live View
using the Flexible Spot autofocus; it’s a little faster if you
use Quick AF, but that mode works by starting with the
mirror flipped up( so it can focus directly from the sensor)
and is impractical to use all the time.
Even single-shot autofocus through the viewfinder using a
single autofocus area - i.e., not using all the AF points at
once - can be slow and inconsistent. That’s because it’s
using an effectively( i.e., tweaked over the years) 10-year-
old autofocus system and a 6-year-old image processing
system.
Furthermore, the viewfinder, which I called claustrophobic
in the T3, and which is the smallest in its class, has the
same tiny, hard-to-see focus points that I’ve complained
about for every Rebel model since they appeared 5 years
ago in the T1i and most recently in the SL1 .( And to be fair,
in the Nikon D3200 as well.) They’re impossible to see in
moderate-to-dim light, so if you shoot on anything other
than full auto, you first have to half-press the shutter to light
up the appropriate focus point( in my case, center) before
you can even begin to frame the scene.
Manually focusing via the viewfinder works fine in high-
contrast scenes, but it’s too dim to focus on dark subjects
in low light. Generally, when the autofocus system has
trouble focusing in those conditions, you’ll probably have
trouble manually focusing as well.
And the reflective, low-resolution LCD display is unpleasant
to use in Live View mode for both stills and video. It’s quite
difficult to see in sunlight, and because it’s fixed rather than
articulating, you can’t angle it for a better view. Checking
focus of the shot is also difficult because of the low-
resolution screen. At least it’s a little bigger than the T3’s.
The battery life is possibly one of the few important areas in
which it bests the T3i - by only about 60 shots - although
even there it’s significantly worse than its predecessor, the
T3.
And keep in mind that there’s no full-time autofocus when
shooting video. On one hand, I can understand not
including it, since you can hear the lens movement - it’s
loud - and there’s no input for an external mic. But it really
limits the flexibility for people who just want to shoot a
video clip occasionally.