Haridwar is one of the holiest places for Hindus. Witnessing the arati at Hari ki Pauri and bathing in the sacred Ganges can be an extremely exhilerating experience, at the least - the religious spin-offs notwithstanding. The water downstream is too dirty. Getting around in Haridwar can be a chore sometimes and the auto-rickshaws are highly adept at taking tourists around in circles. The food at most of the joints is just about edible. Souvenir shop owners, puja shops, guides are mostly out to make a quick buck, so care needs to be taken. But, a kind of old-worldly charm pervades the atmosphere. Numerous dharamsalas with basic amenities make budget travel easy. A stroll just outside Haridwar along the banks of the river is like becoming one with nature for a short while. Under no circumstances get your snaps taken by local photographers - if you do, don’t pay them a farthing. They will never send you your pictures - insist on paying by VPP. The bath in the Ganges at Rishikesh is even more ethereal, and the food and facilities there are better. This entire stretch right onwards to Dehradun and Mussoorie is a trip any tourist will pleasurably savour for a long time to come.