Every aspect of this restaurant’s decor contributes to the look of an old haveli (mansion). Earthy colors of Rajasthan, antiqued walls, tiny replicas of exquisite jharoka (perforated-stone) balconies, miniature paintings and the elegant old samovars once held Rajputs’ liquor. The total effect is enchanting, and the North Indian food is superb, with a bonus: Some of Chef Rajeev Janveja’s creations are cooked with minimal oil or no oil at all. Start with street food gone epicurean: have some marvelous chaats (tangy, moist delicacies made of lentils and potatoes). Move on to murg tikka Irani (marinated chicken cooked in the tandoor), the marvelous rogini gosht (lamb curry), or machli ke tikka (fish marinated in coconut and mint and cooked in the tandoor). Folk dancers, singers, and musicians entertain.