Far away in the desert sands of Rajasthan’s Thar desert, stands an imposing fort with many bastions all around.This is the Rawal Jaisal’s fort which stands up amidst the surroundings on a hillock.A city thrives inside the fort. I think it is rare to find a city inside an old fort, still flourishing in India.This fort has been called the ’’Sonar Killa’’or the Golden Fort.A film was also made by this name by Satyajit Ray.The fort with a city inside and some development outside comprises the city of Jaisalmer.
It was the hot summer of the Rajasthan desert as I made my way on the road from Barmer to Jaisalmer.The hot sun bore down on us fiercely as the hot winds blew the sand on to us.The grains of sand fell on our bodies scorching hot.
Ladies of the villages were seen carrying several pots balanced on their heads, to fetch water from distant wells.The surroundings were barren desert, but for a few acacia trees with thin and scanty leaves and thorns and some arid region succulent plants.There were sand dunes.As the hot wind blew the sand gathered on the roads and the road maintenance people were seen clearing the roads.
Near Jaisalmer we could see some black thatched huts settlement, as we later saw in the Bollywood film Rudaali.
Surprisingly as we were entering Jaisalmer the clouds gathered and as I sat foot in the Circuit House, the rains came along with a thunderstorm and lightning.What a welcome to Jaisalmer!
The windows of the Circuit House rattled as the folk musicians played on their traditional instruments creating an out of this world experience of Rajasthani folk music.
Inside the ambience was traditionally Rajasthani with a mix of the modern amenities.The evening had set in so we had dinner.
Choices.Obviously I opted for the traditional Rajasthani vegetarian cuisine.And it was delightful.
Next day I passed through the Police training school, the city outside the Fort and then went in to the fort through the big gate.
What I liked was the intact fort.It is said that this fort has never been captured by any outside people
.
The amazing part was the life inside the fort, comprising of houses, shops and small lanes.
Some foreigners-Americans, Russians, Europeans were enjoying their tour, talking to some local person, clicking a photo, buying some handicraft, trinket or jewellery item or filming a video.Some were seen staying as paying guests in the houses of the local people.
The local administration permits it and encourages it.
There are some Jain temples inside the fort.These were built by the King’s nobles and Treasury incharge, who were of the Jain faith.The temples house various idols of Jain Tirthankaras and some very ancient records on palm leaves which are being researched to throw light on Jain philosophy and history.
The Havelis or mansions of some very important and rich people of Jaisalmer are very good architectural specimens.
Some of these are the Patwon ki Haveli, Maharawal’s Palace.
What is interesting about these is the tiered structure of the mansions or ’’Havelis’’ and the beautiful front views facades which comprise of latticed balconies with arches, fine carvings in yellow sandstone, intricately made stone windows and somewhere wood carved structures.
Next day we went on excursions out of Jaisalmer by road taking a car.We reached Gadi Sagar Tank and enjoyed seeing a small oasis in the otherwise dry desert surroundings. There was also a well, in which some children were taking turns to dive in and then climb out.
Further down we reached Lodruva where there was a temple of Jain Tirthankara Parshvanath.Lodruva was earlier capital of Rawal Jaisal before the Jaisalmer Fort was built.
Next day we visited the sand dunes at Sam about forty kilometres from jaisalmer.
Here we could see the real sand dunes of the desert.The sun was setting leaving a characteristic golden and red glow in the sky.As the wind blew the sand started shifting and new dunes were formed with the wave like lines.The ride on the camels in the setting sun, on the sand dunes of Sam, made us feel as if we were in another world.
We were impressed with the harshness of the desert, the vast unending stretches of sand, shifting sand dunes, sights and sounds of the desert of Rajasthan, not far from the border of India and Pakistan.
The people appeared hardy and tough, colourful and hospitable.look at the picture above where a group of men sit on the sand dunes, all turbaned.In the distance one can see a few small thorny trees which can grow in the desert in less water and survive.
The colourful clothes and turbans, the folk music and handicrafts, camel rides, the life in the desert and the picturesque imposing Rawal Jaisal’s fort on top of the hillock, made Jaisalmer visit an unforgettable one.
However the time of visit was during the hot summer months.Hot days and cold nights.
If one wants to enjoy more, Jaisalmer should be visited between October to February.
Even though it is winter but the days are enjoyable.
One can also enjoy the Desert Festival held on a full moon night sometimes around January/February, for which the Rajasthan Tourism announces the dates in advance.
One can enjoy the Rajasthani dances-e.g. the Ghoomar and Kal Beliya dances, puppet shows, folk music and also take camel safaris for a few days. But be careful of intimate contacts, as some camel men have been reported by newspapers as suffering from AIDS, perhaps due to interaction with some ladies who went with them on the camel safaris or stayed as paying guests.
Choice of accommodation varies from very good palace type hotels to tents and paying guest accommodation.
Travel is by road.
Nearest airport is Jodhpur. Railway stations are at Jodhpur and Barmer.
Nearby places to visit are Ossiyan for fossils, Sam dunes, Gadisar tank, Lodruva.
So why not go and enjoy the land of the Golden sands and the Sonar Killa of Jaisalmer if you are one for such type of travel?.