What were you to do if you have one day to spend in Kodaikanal?
Seriously, Kodai is finished or almost finished as a summer resort. Crass commercialism, crowds and vehicles have killed it. Despite requests everywhere, the garbage left by tourists and locals alike is everywhere. Crowds everywhere and I am talking of non-season. I took a detour from Pillar Rocks into a nearby wood and guess what I found...neat rows of fresh human faeces! Better stop and return to the point.
There is only one place in Kodai that will make you come back again and again. The Lake is the place to be. Of course, a morning walk on Coakers Walk is appetizing but not addictive. The Pine Walk and other areas are good too, but far off. The Lake is equidistant from anywhere (hotels). It is in the center and at the lowest point of Kodai. It is not round, but like an amoeba, having hidden corners and curves. Exciting. It IS the most crowded place...but the crowd is welcome here. It is a happy place for sure.
Surrounded by magnificent pines and eucalyptus (you have to reconcile with eucalyptus in Kodai), the lake sits in a bowl of green. In spring, the vista is GREAT. Colours, fresh leaves on trees...wow. I was there in monsoon and it felt even better. Pines and eucs are evergreen. The misty air added a romantic touch to the lake and the greenery surrounding it. Lot of boats in the lake. Hire a shikara for 100 rupees an hour one afternoon and laze in it while the boatman guides you all over the waters. At 100 rupees, I bought a nirvana! Too bad, I am single. A wife or a girl friend would have made it romantic.
The boats come cheap too. Anywhere between 30-100 rupees depending on size and type. The fiberglass pedal monsters are there all right. Ignore them. Take a rowboat. Remember those old ones with a metal frame seat in the middle from old movies? (Remember Dev Anand rowing one in Jewel Thief in the song Rula ke Gaya…) Yes those are here in abundance and despite age, they stand strong. Reminded me of the Wind In The Willows when my boatman rowed me into a clump of overhanging pine leaves.
Around the lake is a road that buffers all roads to and from the lake. This one is at the lake level and hence flat. 6 km around the lake, it curves with it and skirts it completely. Know what to do with this road? Hire a bicycle, one of those sturdy mountain bikes or ATB or MTB or whatever. Rupees 10 an hour is quite cheap considering the fun to have. Only their brakes are doubtful, bells extinct and seats, wobbly. But you can get the attendants to fix any fault after choosing your velocipede. Take the bike and follow the rim of the lake. Take the curves around the lake and discover heaven. As you finish one outward curve, you come into an inward curve with trees hanging their branches over you. This is the amoeba that the lake takes shape of. Enjoy these turns. It is exercise, fun and relaxation. At 90 kilos weight (mine!) I did two rounds (6km *2 rounds = 12 km!) without getting tired, rarified atmosphere notwithstanding, fresh oxygen abundant and lots of fun. Something I never dreamt of. Wanted to do a third one, but my fitter and trimmer pals wore out!
In the afternoon, you can sit on the banks, turn in a novel and relax. Or watch the boats with happy tourists (They are genuinely happy) taking a ride. Let the lowest point in Kodai cradle you into a relaxation.
It is irony. The highpoint of Kodai is its lowest point, the primary attraction and the most crowded spot in the region! When you leave, buy some homemade chocolates (30-50 rupees for a 100 grams depending on type) found in every shop in Kodai. Sweet memories