Hailing from the Financial Capital of India, Mumbai; Ganesh Chaturthi for me was the most grand festival ever seen, until I came to live in Kolkata.
Durga Puja is the biggest festival in Bengal. This is also known as Dussehra and Navaratri in other parts of India. Durga is the Goddess of divine power against all evils. The story goes that Mahisasur, the Buffalo Demon, through years of praying, received blessing from Lord Brahma, that no power can kill him which means he is invincible. But once gaining this power he started ravaging the whole world and killing people. And finally he wanted to uproot the Gods too.
The Gods, in dismay, combined their powers to create a beautiful maiden, and each placed his or her most potent weapon in one of her ten hands riding a lion. Her return in each year in the Bengali month of Aswin (September-October) commemorates Rama’s invocation of the goddess Durga before he went into battle with Ravana.
Festival preparations begin a month or two in advance. Employees of different Govt. and private organizations get extra money as Puja bonus to enjoy the festival. Businesses have special advertisement campaigns before Puja and stock themselves with special products. Pre-Puja bargain sales and exhibitions introduce the sartorial style for the coming year.
The festival starts with Mahalaya, the first phase of the waxing moon in Aswin. Thousands offer prayers to their ancestors at the city’s river banks (ghats), a ritual called Tarpan.
The inauguration starts on Mahashasthi. The main Puja is for three days - Mahasaptami, Mahaastami, Mahanavami. The Puja rituals are long and very detailed and complicated. Three days of Mantras and Shlokas and Arati and offerings - needs an expert priest to do this kind of Puja. Because of these facts, the number of Pujas held in the family has reduced and Durga Puja has mostly emerged as a community festival. The city of Calcutta takes a different look during these three days, especially at night. Millions of people come to the city and line up before the pandals. The streets are lighted and the electricians display all different kind of light shows. The restaurants are packed and numerous temporary food stalls are opened though out the city. Special trains, buses are available; underground metro rail runs beyond regular schedule. People from suburban areas come into the city and roam around throughout the nights.
Schools, colleges, offices remain closed during these four days. Some people use the holidays to go out for sightseeing and travel. Trains to tourists spots get reserved months before Puja. Bengalis in other cities in India visit their relatives in West Bengal.
*Farewell to the Durga divine family. A procession before immersion.
After the three days of Puja, in Dashami , in the last day, a tearful farewell is offered to the Goddess. Most of the community Pujas postpone the farewell as long as possible and arrange a grand send-off. The images are carried in processions around the locality and finally is immersed in a nearby river or lake. Vijaya Dashami is an event celebrated all over the country.
Bengalis all over the world tries to celebrate this great event of their culture. Images made out of ’shola’ (light material) are flown to countries abroad and the NRI Bengalis and Indians arrange Puja in foreign lands. In most of the overseas Pujas, the event becomes a meeting place for local Bengalis and Indians. Usually people perform in some cultural activities.
To put in simple words, Durga Puja, the greatest show of Calcutta has been preserved honourably!!