I was in Malta for less than a week in 1993 or 1994 for a Workshop. Then it did not have any diplomatic presence in India. I do not know if it has any now. So, instead of getting a visa all that I got was a fax letter which I had to convert into visa on my arrival at Malta.
But right from the time I started from Bombay, my experience was very unpleasant. Though I had a business class ticket sent to me by the sponsors, the over-confident (or should I say irresponsible?) officials of the British Airways in Madras messed up my itinerary.
I was told my accommodation in London during the stop-over was arranged by the British Airways. With this assurance I reached Bombay. But at Bombay I had a different version. That I won’t be allowed in London as there was no endorsement on my passport, and my connecting flight from London was only the next day. The choice was either to return to Madras or stay on in Bombay for a day.
After I made a scene at the Bombay Airport for the British Airways officials misleading me and messing up my plans, the concerned official contacted Malta and arranged for a seat by a connecting flight (with three hours waiting in London).
Without any valid visa, and with ill-treatment at the Bombay airport, I had lost all my interest to be in Malta, leave alone to participate in the Workshop.
The waiting in London was comfortable. By that time I had become a lot more composed. The flight was in the evening (about three and a half hours from London). What I enjoyed most was watching the evening sky above the Mediterranean sea, as though I was about to touch it.
In the flight I had to forego my food. There was no vegetarian food. Though the crew were courteous, all that they could manage were some raw vegetables (including, probably cactus!), and an assurance that they would serve me vegetarian food on my return trip.
As I landed in Malta, I was reminded of the under-developed, and unorganised Indian cities: Long queues of the passengers, and very few people to attend to them. When my turn came, I was in for trouble. First I was informed that I had no visa, and I will not be allowed in Malta. When I showed them the fax letter, it had to be authenticated by the airport officials. Once the letter was approved, they had to affix the visa stamp on my passport for which I had to pay.
I had only US $ with me. But the officials were not willing to accept the US currency, and wanted me to go to the Bank (upstairs or downstairs). The Bank authorities were not willing to give me exchange without official authentication, and I was literally driven from pillar to post.
As I had only Cabin baggage, it was rather heavy, and carrying it up and down at least half a dozen times made me breathless and aggravated my asthma. Somehow I managed to get the visa and get into a car. The driver’s behaviour reminded me of Indian taxiwallahs. He charged me more than what the meter showed, though with a lot of politeness, and dropped me at the hotel where my room was booked.
The hotel authorities informed me that my room is booked only from the next day (remember the confusion caused by officials in Madras and Bombay which forced me to reach Malta one day in advance; I was literally pushed into the aircraft!). Since rooms were already booked for the Workshop, the hotel accommodated me and charged me for an extra day.
Though it was a harrowing experience till I reached Malta, my stay was pleasant. Malta is a very small place, with a population of about 2 lakhs or so. It claims to have a history of Christianity for a few centuries. I was taken round the city along with others for sight-seeing, which I enjoyed. The most interesting part of the city are hotels close to the sea, and unlike our footpaths, step-paths (I forget the real name) as though we were climbing down the stair case steps.
Malta has no economy and products of its own. It survives on income from tourism. Even drinking water is in short supply. Every plane brings the required cargo along with a lot of tourists. It was a British colony, and got its independence only in 1974 or so. It was trying to be part of the Commonwealth, though I do not remember the exact position. It claims English ancestry, and even its currency is known as Pound.
My return trip was pleasant. The crew in the aircraft had vegetarian food for me, and from London I had a connecting flight without much waiting.
Though I was to undertake a research project for the IILS (part of the ILO), with my harrowing experience at the back of my mind, and my unwillingness to surrender my academic freedom to the sponsor of the project (as input to the World Summit on Development), I turned down the offer, and sent a stinker to the IILS.
So, Malta is still in my memory as an under-developed British colony, with the officials having all the boorishness of the Indian officialdom!