Belonging to the Indian Forest Service, 1992 batch, I was for three years the Assistant Conservator of Forests, Manas Tiger Reserve, and more or less know the inside out of this Reserve. Actually, there are three concentric, overlapping, protected areas in Manas, the Manas Sanctuary of 391 square kilometers, the Manas National Park of 520 square kilometers, and the Manas Tiger Reserve of approximately 2, 600 sq.kms. The entry of tourists though, is restricted only to the central or the Bansbari Range of the Sanctuary.
The park was demoted from the status of ’’World Heritage Site’’ to ’’World Heritage Site in Danger’’ by the UNESCO after it was wrecked during the Bodoland Agitation of 1989-93. Manas National Park is the only National Park in the country which does not have a buffer zone, that is, the civilian population directly abuts the National Park. With the exception of Bansbari Range, to go into rest of the park (Panbari/Bhuyanpara Ranges) without an armed escort is considered dangerous, as the park has off late become a sanctuary for extremist elements. Panbari Range is also partially encroached (16 sq.kms.) by Bodo tribals.
Though once a sprawling Indian One Horned Rhino habitat, after the Bodo Agitation there are practically no rhinos left in the National Park (atleast in three years, I have not seen one!). Tigers.....yes, plenty infact! If I remember correctly, census figures put their population between 80 and 90. Makibaha area in Bhuyan Para Range is particularly well known for good sitings.
You can see plenty of herbivores without any extra effort though! Hog-deer, elephants (with a large number of Makhnas or tusk-less males, and some Sakhnis or tusked females), primates, and birds are in abundance. During the dawn, if you are lucky enough, you can get a glimpse of the shy and elusive hispid hare, or the highly endemic pigmy-hog, or the sluggish sloth bear.
Among the primates, the Golden Langur is endemic to Manas, and is often seen jumping from branch to branch on the Bhutanese side of Manas. By the way, I forgot to mention folks, Manas is right on India’s international border with Bhutan and the Bhutanese side is known as ’’Royal Manas’’, where the king of Bhutan, with his four queens and crown prince, comes down to rest in winter when the upper reaches of Thimphu get too cold.
There is no Cheethal or spotted deer in Manas ; the Cheethal’s geographical spread ends at Sankosh River which is to the west of Manas National Park. The Gaur or the Indian Bison inhabits areas close to Bhutan border.
The Asiatic Wild Buffalo, also called Asiatic Water Buffalo because of its wallowing habit, is one of the most spectacular species of Manas. This hooved monster has the largest span of horns among ungulates in the world, and to be charged by a wild buffalo is equally scary for a Forest Officer as it is to a tourist! A large and ferocious herd of Asiatic Wild Buffalo, can make life miserable even for a tiger. While the tiger aims for the young calfs, the adult buffaloes form a concentric circle, and keep the calf at the center. The tiger dare not attack the calf in such circumstances, or else it gets fatally mauled by the adults.
People know Manas for its larger fauna. But Manas River is also known for its fish population. The Golden Mahseer occurs in the stretches of the river on the Bhutanese side ; the locals call it ’’Janga Tara.’’ It is one of the largest fresh water carps known to the world. The only fresh water dolphin species in the world, the Gangetic River Dolphin, occurs in Manas river also, as well as in other larger rivers of Assam such as Brahmaputra.
Overlooking the Manas River and the Bhutan side of forest is the Mothanguri Inspection Bunglaw. Sitting in the balcony of Mothanguri Inspection Bunglaw on a full-moon night looking across the glistening Manas river, is a divine experience. But now, night stay is no longer allowed due to the perilious law & order situation. Infact before the Bodo Agitation, there were a few such Inspection Bunglaws inside Manas including one on a house-boat. All these, including the famous Kapurpara Bunglaw, were burnt down by the Bodo agitators.
If you want more details on Manas, go to the Sanctuary Magazine’s website on status of tiger ; you will find a comprehensive report there on Manas which was extracted out of the report we submitted to the UNESCO few years ago.
In final judgement, Manas is much more beautiful than Kaziranga. But how long it can retain its glory is a matter open for debate!