Sabarimala !!! ohhh yaaa those guys who keep roaming in black dhotis , unshaven and barefooted, are you going there ? these are the questions one gets when u say you are going on a pilgrimage to Sabarimala. Whats Sabarimala ? and where’s Sabarimala . Sabarimala is a famous temple in South east Kerala. It houses Lord Ayyappa , the benefactor . This temple is thronged by Hindus and non Hindus and westerners too !!!. It has a unique communal -honour of having a Muslim tomb of Vavar ( an aide of Ayyappa ) within its area.
Sabarimala - The Mythological angle
An abandoned child in the kingdom of an issueless King of Pandalam, and was adopted promptly by the king , the child had a golden bell around his neck. This child was ayyappa whose parents were Shiva and Vishnu (in the role of Mohini) . He was born to end the torment of the asuri Mahishi , he did kill her and rode a Tiger ( Lord Indra in Disguise) back to the kingdom. He vanquished a moghul army and befriended Vavar , who later on became his right hand. He then arranged for a temple to be constructed at Sabarimala and merged with the Idol of Dharma Sashta.
Sabarimala - The Geographical Angle
Sabarimala lies to the south east of Kerala, the nearest major railhead being Kottayam , one can also alight at Chengannur , from where its just 2 and a half hours hours away. There are two ways to get to Sabarimala the long route and the short route, the long would take you around 2 to 3 days by foot and the short route around 1.5 to 2 hours by foot, for the short route one has reach the Pampa river from where the trek starts and the longer version starts at Erumeli.
The Preamble to Sabarimala
This temple has no caste barriers but is open only to men , women who are not into or have completed their menstrual cycle ( less than 10 yrs and above 50 yrs ) are allowed. The reason being that Lord ayyappa on his way back to pandalam released a goddess who was under a spell - Mallikapurathamma , he refused to marry her as he wished to be a bachelor through out his life. One can go to the temple by directly going to the temple via the side entrance or by entering through the magnificent golden 18 steps . To access these steps one must restrict himself for a period of 41 days by observing a ’’ Vrat ’’. During this period he must observe celibacy, avoid shaving of facial hair and a haricut , avoid smoking , drinking, meat , onions , garlic and try and lead a simple life. This tends to be amended a bit in the metros due to the obscure working hours. One must also pray twice and day and stay focused on the Lord only !!! .
One has to wear a simple necklace of the lord during this ’’Vrat’’ and shall be removed on completion of the journey. One must try and wear black , blue or Saffron garments.
Preparation for the Journey
This journey cannot be done alone , it must be done with a Guruswami ( a person who has been to the temple 3 times at least ) who will lead the group. Each person will carry an Irumudi ( this is a small cloth parcel containing Rice, Coconuts , Mudra Coconuts ( these are coconuts which are filled with Ghee or vegetable fat ), Sacred Ash , Kumkum etc. This packet must be kept by the pilgrim on his head throughout the trip and can be removed only with the permission of the Guruswami. This parcel is made just before embarking on the journey. One must complete the journey barefooted.
The Trek
As I have traveled on the short trek , I shall describe the same only , one starts the trek at Pampa , reaching the ’’Kanimoola Mahaganapati ’’Temple , after breaking a customary coconut for successful completion of the trek, the uphill climb starts. The trek is mainly divided into 3 parts :-
The uphill climb of Neelimala and Apachi Medu
The route to Sannidhanam ( the main temple town)
The eighteen steps and the Temple.
The uphill climb of Neelimala and Apachi Medu ( which are hills ) is strenuous and tests one’s stamina and vigour. Being barefooted and holding the Irumudi with one hand and carrying a side bag for some basic changeover of clothes on the other hand dosent help either. Some do it with ease climbing like a mountain goat but for city goers like us its not an easy task. The path is not very smooth and has boulders and rocks to avoid mudslide during the monsoon.
Huff Puff , you are on top of apaachi Medu and all you see now is a long winding trek through the jungle to Sannidhanam. This is another test , you don’t need stamina , what you need now is deftness and dexterity as the road is full of sharp stones and thorns , chanting the name of the lord you make your way towards Sannidhanam.
Upon reaching the top and the Eighteen steps , you have to break a customary coconut and proceed towards the main temple through the Eighteen Golden Steps. The first sight of the lord after 41 days of fast and the trek is emotional , tears stream down you eyes. Like a typical Kerala Temple the inner sanctum sanctorum dosent have artifical lighting, only Lamps are used to light up , which makes it all the more pretty.
The First timers have to keep a red cloth at Mallikapuram Goddess’s temple , the legend says when first timers would stop coming , Lord Ayyappa would marry Mallikapuarathamma .
Sannidhanam though on the top of the hill is equipped with all facilities. The trek downhill is fast but taxes you as you are already tired with the climb. After you are back you remove the necklace you wear and break your fast to return to the normal life.
Faith in God is what carries one along , and such rigorous routine enforces a lot of discipline in our otherwise easygoing life. I know I have not covered a lot of things, but I have managed to put in whatever information I could within this review.
SWAMIYE SHARANAM AYYAPPA AND GOD BLESS !!!