Varanasi was a great experience. It had its highs and lows. The place is crowded, the people are friendly, and it’s a great place to get away to for a couple of days. I stayed at the Ganpati Guesthouse, but didn’t quite like the place as the staff was unfriendly, laundry services unreliable, over priced rooms and bad food. Apart from that, the city itself is buzzing with activity, the ghats are amazing. The water is quite dirty, but nothing comes close to the feeling of peace and being one with nature and God when you take a boat ride on the river at 4 am. It is the most serene experience I ever had.
You do get your share of attention from the locals who are looking for ways to make a quick buck. They would catch u to give a massage for Rs 30 to tell you all about the city and the ghats for Rs 100. Be careful of beggars and also be wary of how much u pay for the boat rides. The amounts can vary greatly. Do not miss the burning ghats (no photography allowed there). It is an overwhelming experience to see the whole process of cremation. It is personal at many levels. Finding a non veg restaurant is difficult, though one can try the roof top restaurant at Rashmi hotel (very expensive). DO NOT MISS the evening arati at Dasashwamedh Ghat (the most important ghat) which starts at 6 30 pm and is a daily affair. It is beautiful.
All in all, I came back enriched and with a whole bunch of very interesting photographs.