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Aurangabad

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Aurangabad
krishnan murthy@krishnanrr
Mar 10, 2005 12:55 PM, 9664 Views
(Updated Mar 10, 2005)
Aurangabad .... Aurangazeb`s City

Aurangabad in the Marathwada area of Maharashtra is a pleasant tourist spot ideal as a long weekend break from either Mumbai or Pune.


Located on the Deccan Plateau, Aurangabad, as the name suggests, is a town linked closely to the Mughal Emperor Aurangazeb.


It is an old town steeped in history and offers a fascinating vista of different eras and cultures of our country.


Daulatabad is one of the oldest and most secure battle scarred forts in India. The climb up is steep but once you get there the views are spectacular.


Ideally start climbing early in the morning and if you can carry an icebox with bottles of chilled beer nothing is more pleasant than to sit and watch the views sipping you beer!


The undulating road to Ellora with the vehicles so tiny in the distance, the city of Aurangabad laid out in front of you, and the walls of the old fort marching around and round, which is very clearly delineated from the top and a small lake, the waters shimmering in the distance.


This is the fort that is associated with Mohammed Bin Tughlaq; remember the shifting of his capital? This is the place he shifted to from Delhi.


You can easily visualize the blowing of trumpets, the creaking saddles, neighing horses, the jangle of weapons, the elephants squealing and trumpeting and the men cursing as another army attacks this fort.


Mhaismal is a small hill station near Aurangabad. The place is @ 50 kms from Aurangabad and you go up a winding road, which offers you breathe taking views.


It’s a peaceful place with a lake and few people. There is one viewpoint where you can get tea and snacks. A wooded area for walks. There is a lovely Balaji Temple from where you can get panoramic views.


The best part of Mhaismal is sitting on a hillock and watching the kites rise up on the wind currents as they circle the air waiting for prey.


The only drawback in Mhaismal is that there are no suitable places to stay or eat. Though a few places are getting developed.


While returning or going to Mhaismal one can go to the old town of Khultabad and see the tomb of the Mughal Emperor Aurangazeb.


The Tomb is a simple one unlike the grand ones built for the other Mughals. It makes one wonder what sort of a man was this, who wished his tomb to be a simple affair even though he was the most powerful of the ruler around then. I had often heard and read that he was a Zealot who troubled his subjects who were not of his faith. The stories one hears in Khultabad about this man, is about a simple honest and pious person. One wonders what could be the reality.


Khultabad is also a good place to wander along looking at the old buildings and the graceful structures now falling into ruins. It also confirms my view that as a people we do not care for our Past. We are so busy with the present and worrying about the future and glorifying an imagined greatness thousands of years past that we miss the real beauty all around us which may be just a few hundred years old!


It is preferable to go to Daulatabad and Khultabad in the morning and return from Mhaisamal in the evening after seeing the sunset.


Ellora caves and the Grushneshwar Temple. The second day one can visit the Grushneshwar temple and the Ellora caves. The temple is one of the twelve Jyotirlings and the current structure owes a lot to Ahilyabhai Holkar, the rani of Indore.


Ellora caves, what can one say about a monument that is famous all over the world. I enjoyed the different caves and the awesome carvings. My wife enjoyed the little rivulets flowing down the hill sides during the monsoon and the greenery along the route, the children enjoyed running and climbing on the rocks and watching and feeding the monkeys that abound here. It is not possible to describe either Ajanta or Ellora caves here, as volumes have been written about them. Suffice to say that the viewing of both these ancient monuments is a memorable experience.


I must have seen these places at least 15 to 20 times and was never bored and found something new and alluring every time. The first view of Ellora is something I always cherish.


In the evening one can visit BiBi ka Maqbara, if the Taj is the epitome of a Husband’s love for his wife the Maqbara is the epitome of a Son’s love for his mother.


The structure modeled on the more famous Taj was built by one of Aurangazeb`s son for his mother. (If you want to know who he is and how much the structure cost you can read the boards at the site lol!)


I prefer to watch the monument and laze around in its gardens and look at the moonlight play on the structure once the sun sets.


Ajanta is a day trip from Aurangabad and the caves abound in wonders and mysteries. The Apsara is more beautiful than Miss world, the pearls as splendid and lustrous and the Buddha smiles, frowns and is also serene all in one single structure the expression depending on where you stand and gaze at him.


Remember to take a look at the ceiling of the various caves the carving and painting very realistically resemble a cloth pandal!


There are many more place too see in Aurangabad but these to me are the highlights and should take you a long weekend.


If you have time you could go to Paithan and see the gardens there and the Samadhi of the Saint poet Eknath on the banks of the serene Godavari.


Shopping in the old parts of the city can be fun but tedious. You can shop for Himru and Mashru cloth though there are few who can really weave the real stuff now and its very expensive. Paithani Sarees can be bought even in Aurangabad.


Aurangabad can be conveniently reached from Mumbai by Train, Road or flight. From Pune the road is preferable. My favorite route was from the Dhulia as one climbed up the Deccan Plateau thorough the winding steep ghats at Kannad. In the rainy season there would be clouds and mist swirling on the ghat.


I preferred the monsoons as there weather would be cool and pleasant, the clouds for company when you went up to Mhaismal and best of all the little rivulets cascading down at Ajanta and Ellora. If you trek during the monsoon you could come to small isolated falls where you could strip and have a bath. Summers are to be avoided as the rocks get heated up and it is very uncomfortable.


Aurangabad has accommodation to suit all tastes and pockets from the excellent 5 star Ajanta Ambassador to the Youth Hostel, I have stayed in both and both are value for money! If you are young and traveling light the youth hostel is a great place to stay and meet and make friends from all over the world.

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