Intro:
Bandipur National Park is part of the vast stretch of forests, spanning three states – Karnataka, Tamil Nadu and Kerela – which forms the protected area known as the “Nilgiri Biosphere”. It is located about 80 kms south of Mysore, on the Ooty highway. Further south down this road lies the Madumalai sanctuary, in Tamil Nadu. The two are essentially the same stretch of forest, divided by the Moyer river gorge.
Bandipur is an important national park, protected under the aegis of Project Tiger and is also an important elephant haven. The park authorities claim that there are about 70 tigers and about the same number of leopards. Other large animals include the elephants, which are numerous, but generally visit this area in the summers and early monsoons (April-May). Bison are found in large numbers during the monsoon season, spotted deer (Chital) and sambars are found in thousands. Chital are so numerous that you need not enter the forests to spot them. They are seen right beside the road, quite oblivious to the traffic, and also close to forest department bungalows. You can almost reach out and touch one, but don’t – it’s against the rules!
Getting There - Driving:
It is a more or less straight drive from Mysore on the Mysore-Ooty road. From Bangalore, it’s better to start off early in the morning, to avoid the traffic on Mysore road. For breakfast, there is a good Café Coffee Day just after Ramnagaram, about 60 kms from Bangalore. If you want clean restrooms, then this is the place to take a break! While crossing Ramnagaram, take a look at the rocky hills around the little town. These hills served as Gabbar Singh’s lair in the movie Sholay.
Back on the road, and another straight drive (except for the diversions due to road construction) for about 70 kms and you’re about to enter Mysore. Since it would be about 9:00 AM now, it would be wiser to take the bypass road which winds around Mysore city and joins the Ooty road. The road from here onwards is narrower, but has significantly lesser traffic. Do watch out for the busses though – they are notoriously bad drivers, especially the bright yellow ones from Kerela, followed by the red and white ones of Karnataka. But for most of the time the road is free and you can cruise at 100+ speeds.
About 20 kms outside Bandipur, you would cross the last big town – Gundulpet. After this the road is pockmarked will holes like a golf ball. You would need to slow down to 40 unless you are driving a Jeep or SUV. Now you would come to the last village before the park – the funnily named “Hangala village”. Just down the road is the entrance park, with a “Welcome to Bandipur” sign. There are a few mild hair-pin bends after this, and as you ascend the first one, you can see the scenery change. The hills around you are covered with vegetation – a welcome change from the arid landscape around Mysore.
If you are going to the resorts – Tusker Trails, Bush Betta or Tiger Ranch, then you would need to take a broken-down road running left to the main highway (enquire in the reception area). This road is effectively taking you into the jungle. There are a few living quarters along the road, but don’t let that fool you – wild animals are found along this road. We had once spotted a leopard on a small hillock beside this road. People living in this area have also heard tigers roaring at night, and elephants are also seen in this area. But in the daytime, you would get to see only some Chital deer (quite a few of them, actually) and probably a hare or mongoose. About 3 kms down this road is the Tusker Trails resort. Bush Betta and Tiger Ranch are also nearby.
Tusker Trails:
The resort charges about Rs. 2000 per head, and this includes all food, and two safaris (one in the morning, and one in the evening). Do keep in mind, however, that while the rooms are quite comfortable and clean, they are not luxurious. There is no air-conditioning, TV or phone. Your mobile will also not work here – not even BSNL.
The resort has gypsies and a truck for safaris. Both are great – while in the truck you get a better view, the gypsies are quieter and can go deeper into the jungle. I would recommend that you try both. The guides double up as drivers, and have an uncanny sense of hearing and sight. They can spot out animals where we city dwellers cannot see even with binoculars!
Some rules are to be observed during these safaris – firstly, no bright colours like red or white. It seems that the forest department may carry out random checks and fine those not following the colour-code. This is done because the bright colours attract animals, and also because it is known that elephants do not like the colour white. Secondly, minimize the use of deodorants, perfumes and aftershaves – these attract jungle bees! Finally, no smoking, eating or making excessive noise in the jungle.
Some of the animals you can hope to see in the safaris are:
Chital – These spotted deer are the most numerous. They are found both along the road, as well as inside the forests.
Sambar – These are larger deer and are found only inside the forest. They also may come near the road at night, but are generally shy of humans. Both the stag and hind are reasonably large and have a greyish-drown shaggy coat. There is a good chance of spotting these animals, anytime of the year.
Elephants – They are found in large numbers, but not throughout the year. You can see them in the dry summer months, and after the first April showers. They are harder to find in the peak monsoons and the winter.
Bison – These are large bovine animals and are also known as “Gaur”. Males are massive with large horns, while females are smaller. They can be spotted only during the monsoons and after the April showers. They are completely absent during the dry months.
Barking Deer – Also known as “muntjac”, these animals are a small variety of deer, and are highly endangered. You may catch a glimpse of one running into the undergrowth. The barking deer gets it’s name from the sound it makes – similar to the bark of a dog.
Mongoose – It’s fairly common to see a pair of these animals anywhere – along the road, in the forests, even near your cottage in the resort.
Leopards – Leopards, like tigers, are quite elusive and it’s difficult to spot one. However, if you are lucky, you may see one from a distance – especially in the late evenings or early mornings.
Tigers – Highly elusive, and chance of spotting one is very low. You have to be very, very lucky to see one. I have visited these jungles four times till now, and have not yet seen one. However, signs of their presence are visible – pugmarks, dung and sometimes you might also encounter their kills, like the carcass of a Chital.
Apart from the safaris, the resort also offers some other activities. It organizes treks into the jungle, and there are also elephant rides offered by the forest department. Speaking of which, the resort keeps three domesticated elephants. They have been living here since they were calves, and now they have grown bigger. One of them has a very bad temper, and the resort advises you to keep distance. There is also a small swimming pool where you can cool off during the hot afternoon. Or you can just order a cold beer and laze around in the verandah of the cottages.