"Before starting my review on this topic, let me devote it’s success and touching feeling to our taxi driver Mr. Sunil Yadav. Without him, this trip would have been not such a great success and enjoyable. Thanks Yadav Ji".
The summer of May as well as our marriage anniversary were the compelling factors for us to board Ranikhet Express. At Kathgodam, we met few taxi drivers and wished to visit Binsar. But we turned to one called Yadav ji for the competitive pricing with a promise of no scope for complaint. He pricing was just half of the rest. I did not understand the reason...why such obligation to us...anyway I sat very alert with my wife inside that maruti 800 and moved to our destination.
Change of Focus In the mid of the trip, we stopped at Naukuchiya for breakfast and some boating. I found Naukuchiya the most beautiful Lake amongst the all lakes in Nainital as well as it’s location is best. At this point I asked Yadavji that how much far is Chaukori. Yadavji’s estimation was different and possible. Also the local people there told me that chaukori gives stunning view of panchuli range and is better than kausani....something better than Kausani was enough to drive me to this place. Whole trip was more than 500 kms when we planned at Map, while Binsar was just 60+30 Kms away from KGM!
Route was great: We continously drove to Chaukori, taking lunch at Kainchi dham. I advice you to halt at Kainchi, watch Kosi river and have Moong ke Pakode with Dhaniya Pudina ki chatni. There you can get good export quality flower seeds too. Side by side Kosi river was running which becomes mighty during rains but at this time she was thin and climate was not so good as was during my July trip to kausani. Near Almora the road splits to Binsar and Kausani and we moved on the munsiyari road, halted to watch the dense cheer forests amid which maneater panthers were rehabilitated. Some photosession and moved ahead and took turn at Dhaulichina and from here dangerous high attitude road started where no mobility was marked with dense forest presence all around and high peaks about which yadav told me that during rain and winter nobody drives on this road. We entered Sheraghati and found ourselves like ants moving amid big buildings, but upto this time whole area was still facing summer assualt making the othewise moist greenry parched. We crossed kali river where you can get delicious fresh fish with beau site, and I advice you to have that must. By 2:30 We reached Beri Nag and all sudden the climate took a change and suprisingly. Here the road splits into three directions...one throgh which we had come, one going to patal Bhuwaneswar and another going to Chaukori and Munsiyari. We took the last one. At those high heels devdar and cheer forest had alls udden changed from dry to moist. We were travellin in dense mist and cloud covering like wall and ceiling and we saw some breathtakign peaks of panchchuli in the way...continuously the climate was changing to colder and we forgot that we were in mid of Summer!
Heavenly Chaukori Part I As soon as we reached Chaukori, we were welcomed with big stones of ice with about 1 inch diameter( never seen that large) and heavy rain. We had only one option to stay there..KMVN guest house but it was nice. We took hot water batch and coverd overselves in blankets shivering too much. The play og rain, cloud, mist and Himalyan panchuli gave us some mesmerising and everlasting memories which I can’t describe here. it was more than amazing and satisying with great scenic beauty and special view from KMVN guest house with Almighty himalaya in front of you with 180 d view. After the brief halt. We moved into the tea garden and the dense forest towards Bageshwar. But this cloud and rain took away our chance to watcht eh famous sunrise panchuli peaks of Himalaya.
Amazing Patal Bhuwaneswar Part II Early mornign we left it at 9:00 Am. Otherwise you would miss your train at evening at kathgodam for Delhi( 8:00 PM). We had to visit another awful thing..patal bhwaneswar, A natural cave much below the earth surface, where it is said that all 4 dhams of hindus are located and it’s anthology of the life on earth. The route to patal Bhwaneswar was full of mist and cold one. Very exntinguished quality flowers one can find there and clearly you can sense fragrance of herbs. We reached there, which is surrounded with amazing location and dense deodar forest. for entry a panditji accompanies you( and he is a very nice guide indeed. you will enjoy his guidance). He will take you inside the cave, which you have to traverse through a vertical tunnel using iron chain. the tunnel is very narrow, and you can’t believe that all sudden that narrow tunnel opens to a big hall 30-40 ft below. And there the book of history opens and the patterns and stories inside the cave leaves your stunned. Sehsnag’s spine, the way to yugs, the meter of different yugas, another tunnel into the another garbh, 100 legs of eravat, and caves at big height and cieling in which you can easily find human impressions formed due to continous mediation, shivalings and gangafalling over it, and finally the place where pandavs stayed hidden. It is a place where you must must go and feel yourself.
Memorable return Part III We moved back to our destination through gangolihat, Godess Kali’s highly sacred temple, and I urge you all to visit this place. After darshan we moved ahead and reached the Jageshwar temple complex where more than 100 temples were made in the middle of dense forest about which it is said that "Ghosts made them". This complex has two main temples facing each other made by Chand kings using a different kind of stones. The worst thing is the Pandas greedy pandas there. We finally moved and reached the Golu devtas temple. He is highly respected devta of Kumaon hills and I personally feel his greatness after bowing before him. Must visit there and you will found millions of bells hanging everywhere and letters written. We finished our journey at exact time..2 days and got the ranikhet express back for Delhi. But one man who helped us unravel these stunnign experience was none other than our driver Yadavji. His young son had died while he was surving the tourists at high heels and he had no money at home and his son had to die. This man selflessly offers service at such a good rate and unmatchable devotion. You can get his address and phone number from me. It’s tough to find sucha honest man in such unknown places. it was his personal zeal and interest that he made us see all this otherwise he could have easily fooled us!". I found taxi trips with a group is much better than any other means in this himalyan region, where you can get into any corner and discover the beauty to any extent. KMVN service is affordable at 750 rs, with moderate priced meals and good service. Taxi for two days costed me 3500 in which we traversed all in details and about 600 kms or more. In overall we spent Rs 5000 for two person, including everything. Chaukori trip is not less than sensing the poet in God. Must visit and keep the plac clean. Plz. it is untouched.