From what I had read and heard from my school days, I had great hopes for Darjeeling. It was like dream come true when I was able to book return tickets to Bagdogra for a promotional fare on Air Deccan.
The feeling on reaching Bagdogra Airport were kind of mixed, the airport was nice & small with lush green surroundings but the moment you step out of the Airport, you’ll be hoarded by a sickening crowd of Taxi wallas… each one wanting you to hire his services. I some how managed to shoo them away and took a pre-paid taxi (shared with another couple whom I met at the booking window) to Darjeeling. Taxi costs Rs. 1050/- at the pre-paid window but depending on the season you can negotiate down to 800/- bucks just outside the airport.
The road to Darjeeling is not one of the best. In fact at places, it is barely motorable. Be preapared for the bumpy ride, it can take 3-4 hours from Bagdogra to Darjeeling. If you want to take any snack breaks on the way, Tourist Lodge in Kurseong mid-way from Darjeeling is a good place.
On reaching Darjeeling, stay away from the recommendations of the Taxi driver or the numerous touts who will offer to find you a good place to stay. My recommendation will be to stay on the other side of darjeeling from the bus stand near the Raj Bhawan [10 mins walk from bus stand, take a coolie to carry your luggage]. Again this also depends upon one’s budget and the availability but if you can afford 1500 Rs plus a night, check out Darjeeling Tourist Lodge/ Gymkhana Club/ Fortune Central. They are away from the polluted crowded areas of main town but still within 5-10 mins walking from the Mall. I was unlucky not to find accomodation at any of these places but was lucky to get a good room with a decent view at Hotel Capital (bang next to the clock tower). The place costed me Rs 800/- all incl for a deluxe room. If you happen to stay there, ask to room no. 9 it has the best views.
Darjeeling, to be frank is just like any other Hill Station (nainital, mussorie etc etc) if you stay limited to the town area. The moment you head out of the city limits, its like a paradise.. lush green and beautiful. Take a day trip to Mirk and pls. do stop on the way at Jorphokri (sorry if I misspleded it ). Mirik seemed like a dreamy place with clouds all around and a lovely lake (now a bit plluted) in the middle. And not to forget, we had the best food during our stay at Hotel Jagjeet in Mirik (surprising to find a hotel owned and run by a Sardarjee in this part of the country).
Avoid the regular sightseeing itenaries offered by travel agents; most of the spots offered in ten point and five point tours are only to add numbers. Do the research and make your own itenary. Do include the Zoo, HMI, Japanese Temple, Tenzing Rock, Ghoom Monastry in your itenary. You can cover the rest if you have time.
The morning pre-dawn trip to Tiger Hill is one of the best attractions that Darjeeling has to offer. It offers fascinating views of Mt. Kanchenjunga. Pls. pls. follow my advice here and take the following precautions if you want to enjoy this part. Start early (3:45 AM) if you want to grab a good spot, park your taxi as far away from the main view point as possible (preff next to ticket fattak) else you will have to wait for an hour for the jam to ease on your way back.
One thing that always comes to mind when you think of Darjeeling is the Toy Train. Sorry to say but the train is a let down. There are couple of reasons for the same, one, it is no longer original. The Steam engine has given way to the Diesel variant and the train itself is soo slow that it bears on your patience after couple of hours. If you really want to try it go no longer than Ghoom station and back ( 9 Kms one way, two hours)
One the way back to the airport, our driver took a different route (said it was one way) and I would not be bragging if I say that this was the second best drive of my life (the best one is salisbury-winchester in England). The scenery is stunning and the route passes through reserve forests and tea gardens all through the way.
Other Recommendations:
Places to eat: For Breakfast, try Glennary Bakery for excellent bakes, Pies, Cookies etc
Places to eat: Lunch/ Dinner: Hotel Park and Hotel Lunar both offer great Indian vegetarian food. Dekevas was nice for Tibetian and Chinese.
Shopping: Dragon Market and Mahakaal Market are good places to shop but bargain hard. The actual prices are ~60% of the initial qoute.
Souvenier: Take packs of Darjeeling Tea, You can buy at NathMulls in Darjeeling or Makaibari factory itself on the way back to airport from Darjeeling.
Have a nice trip, hope this was of help !