There are several trek routes through the Singalila Park; some claim an entry from West Sikkim is a relatively easier way than the one I took. Although now I realise I was not well prepared, not well informed and took things for granted before I started the trek, I wouldn’t change a thing about the entire 4 day trek of mine in the foothills of the Himalayas. However, I strongly recommend a guide if you want to venture out for this trek.
I along with my seven friends started for a tiny village in India-Nepal border called Manebhanjyang, the drive from Darjeeling to this village took us about an hour. From Manebhanjyang there was a 1954 model Land rover waiting to take us to Kalipokhri(black pond), the starting point of our trek. The distance from Manebhanjyang to Kalipokhri is only 25 kilometres but it takes about 3 hours to reach there, thanks to the roads, which look more like a dried out river with waterfalls in between and the elevation of the road. We crossed many tiny villages in between and halted at Tumling, which had a trekker’s hut. Usually trekker’s who trek the entire way up halt overnight in Tumling. We had some very nice salt and butter tea there before continuing our journey upwards. We reached Kalipokhri at 2pm and thus our 6 kilometre trek to the Sandakphu, without any guide started. The climb to Sandakphu is very steep but the scenic landscape compensates for the effort. It took us 4 hours to trek 6 kilometres, we reached Sandakphu at 6pm. Sandakphu is a very small village at 11000 feet, with a maximum of 10 houses, out of which 6 are trekker’s huts and forest bungalows. Our room was a dormitory of 5 beds, with enough quilts and blankets. There is no electricity and water and food is scarce in this place. I recommend Sherpa Chalet for accommodation in Sandakphu because it is much warmer compared to the forest bungalows and they have generators which are switched on for 3 hours in the evening. The food is very basic and is comparatively expensive. A meal of dal and rice will cost you Rs 70.
The next day’s trek was a 21 kilometre trek to Phalut. This is relatively an easy trek through rhododendron forests and lush green meadows. Throughout the journey you keep crossing between Nepal and India. There is one SSB(Seema Sena Bal) camps on the way to Phalut, apart from that the only other for of life you will find on the way are yaks and wild horses. There are no villages or a sign of any human settlement on the way, no streams or shops, so you need to carry your own lunch and plenty of water. There is one diversion on the way and I learnt it the hard way that taking the road that leads to the abandoned forest check post and following the red arrows downhill from the check post leads you to a SSB camp situated about 2 kilometres away, which is completely the opposite direction from Phalut. From the forest check post Phalut is another 2.5 hours trek. You need to start early from Sandakphu because it gets pitch dark by 6.30 pm and finding your way can be difficult if you get lost and there are no signboards to guide you, and please do not trust the red arrows, those lead to the camps. Phalut consists of just one forest bungalow, with a very cosy kitchen. Food is same as Sandakphu, maybe 10 bucks more.
The third day’s trek was to a village called Rammam. The trek is all downhill and passes through pine and deodar forests. There are picture perfect little streams and villages on the way. One need not halt in Rammam, one has the option of halting in a village called Gorkhey or trek further from Rammam and halt in a river side forest bungalow in Sirikhola. I also learnt that a downhill trek is far more strenuous than uphill, there are chances of having your ankles sprained and muscle cramps more in a downhill trek. Have a pain relieving spray handy; also carry salt because these forests are infested with leeches. Gorkhey is about 5 hour trek from Phalut and a 1 hour trek from Gorkhey will take you to this charming village of Samaden. This valley is covered with mustard, potato and cabbage fields against the backdrop of pine trees. Another 3 hours trek will take you to Rammam, the Sherpa lodge here again is the best place to stay, of course the villagers provide accommodation in their own houses too. If it is past 5pm by the time you reach Rammam then do not venture any further because the road from Rammam to Sirikhola is very steep and extremely slippery. On the fourth day hoped to catch a cab from a place called Sepay, situated about 4 kms from Rammam, but we missed the only cab that leaves from Sepay, so we had to trek another 4 kms to the village of Rimbick. We took a cab from there and headed for our 5 hours drive back to Darjeeling.
To reach there: Bagdogra(nearest airport), New Jalpaiguri(nearest railway station). From these place a 2 hour drive will take you to Darjeeling. Manebhnjyang is about one hour drive from Darjeeling. Cabs can be availed from Darjeeling, any hotel can arrange this for you.
Best Season: March-Mid May, Oct-Nov, of course if you can bear the cold then try Dec-Feb for the snow.
Attraction: The highest mountains in the world, the majestic Himalayan range follows you through the entire trek. Green meadows, yaks, wild horses, varied fauna and it’s a bird watcher’s paradise.
Accommodation: The huts cost Rs 50 to 200 per bed till Sirikhola.
Carry: Good walking waterproof shoes, candles, tang, glucose, chocolates, lighter, newspapers, jackets and caps, sunscreen, biscuits, water bottles and some whiskey J
Although my trek was extended by 10 kilometres(thanks to my friend’s so called shortcut), got lost in the woods in dark, stayed in haunted places with no electricity, starved at some point, ran out of water, had sprained ankles and leech bites, took bath in cold Himalayan streams, got soaked in the rain and nearly froze to death….but there isn’t a thing now that I want to change about the entire experience.