The Siva temples in the Elephanta rock cut caves on Elephanta Island in Mumbai harbour are a UNESCO World Heritage Site. asi.nic.in/asi_monu_whs_elephanta.asp
Getting There: Ferry boat from Gateway of India. First boat dep. 0830hrs Time: 1hour Return Fare: Rs 120/-
The boat ride is an attraction in its own right. Take the first boat to avoid the crowds and the heat. You will get a lot of photo opportunities as you sail through the harbour - Naval dockyard, Butcher and Cross Islands, Gateway, seagulls etc. Contrary to internet information, passengers are not allowed in the upper deck but you can enjoy the breeze and views from the bow end.
When you arrive at the Elephanta jetty you can take the Elephanta express toy train [Rs 10 return] for the novelty - it is faster to walk to the foothill. At the foot hills you must pay entrance tax of Rs 5. There are several restaurants here. The staircase going upto the caves was built by the British of solid black stone bricks with rounded sidewalls. It is a heritage stairway. Both sides are however lined by souvenir vendors of every description! After a short climb you will reach the ASI area where you must buy entry tickets @ Rs 10/- The path on the left goes to the caves, the path on the right to Cannon Hill but there is a more interesting trail to Cannon Hill beyond the caves path.
The Caves:
You will be horrified to discover that all the carvings are badly defaced, apparently by the Portuguese. It is reminiscent of the Talibans destruction of the Bamiyan Buddhas. Restoration work has not been done in a proper manner and modern day vandals have added their share of Bunty loves Pinky!
Nonetheless the Mahesamurti retains its sublime splendour. Except for the Main Cave, the rest are either unfinished or defaced beyond redemption. Additionally there are some Buddha stupas which are not completely excavated.
The Main Cave houses the famous Trimurti / Mahesamurti - the 3 headed figure of Lord Siva as Sadasiva: Aghora, Tatpurusa and Vamandeva flanked by an Ardanarisvara panel on the left and a Gangadhara panel on the right. It is sublimely beautiful, ephemeral, transcendental, beyond description. If you take the first boat, you will certainly have this to yourself at least for a reasonable period of time. Tip: Take a tripod along for sharper photographs as there is not too much light in the caves and flash just does not give the same effect.
Cannon Hill
From the caves pathway you can see the pretty Elephanta check dam below. At the end of the pathway is a small trail covered with barbed wire fence. Go under the fence and follow the trail through light forest to Cannon Hill, you will see another trail to the left, take that which comes out at the Upper Cannon, a reasonably well preserved Portuguese era cannon atop a rotating dais. You can walk down into the chamber below which houses a series of rooms, take thewell lit passage which will bring you out about 40ft lower down the hillside to the path going to the Lower Cannon. From here you can get a good view of the Elephanta Jetty. Take the official pathway down to the MTDC restaurant and bar, which is on the top right of the stairway. MTDC also has rooms for day use as night halts are not permitted.
There are plenty of food and drink stalls and restaurants here so no need to carry any with you. Watch out for the monkeys if you are eating in the open!
If you take the 8.30 boat from Gateway, you can leisurely see everything and take the 1.30 boat back from Elephanta. Take extra memory card / battery for there are ample photo opportunities. Wear proper walking sandals / shoes and carry a hat.
A worthwhile half days trip for Mumbai residents and visitors alike. Mondays closed and no ferry service in the monsoons.
Images from ASI:
https://asi.nic.in/asi_monu_whs_elephanta_images.asp