Gondal isn’t a place that would be visited on its own, or figure high on a tourist itinerary. Nevertheless, whenever you are at Rajkot/ Junagarh in Gujarat and have half a day to spare, Gondal is not be missed.
Buses galore ply to and fro Rajkot & Gondal (40kms). I avoided the AC bus. That’s secondarily because I wanted to travel soaking in the sights from open windows (ha, tell me another one) and primarily because I am stingy (that’s better). My choice of transport - a rattling, about to collapse into innumerable smithereens any moment, state transport bus appalled my Rajkotian friend Nikhil.
Much less than half way to Gondal, after cribbing incessantly, he decided with a vehemence that enough was enough, and got off the bus, with me following. Among other sundry ones, the chief reason for his rebelliousness was a child who got bus-sick all over his coveted Lee Cooper six-pocket, double-detachable cargoes. The child’s mother had followed suit immediately after.
After thirty minutes of waiting on a desolate highway at noon, silently bearing Nikhil’s outbursts about the hot weather, I was in his Toyota Qualis, which he called for, along with another shade of Lee Cooper six-pocket, double-detachable cargoes. Comfortable perhaps, but not half as much gala fun and excitement as rattling state transport buses. To cut a long story short, we reached Gondal.
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Finally, Gondal !
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I was surprised to note that Gondal, a fortified town located on the river Gondali, the capital of the erstwhile princely State of Gondal, ruled by the Jadeja Rajput clan till the independence of India, was a well-planned, beautifully constructed township with wide tree-lined roads, ornate with ancient lamp-posts that worked.
The last ruler of Gondal, Maharaja Bhagwatsinhiji, planned the town with aesthetic taste, reflecting in the architecture of public buildings, parks, and bazaars of Gondal.
A place hitherto ruled by Maharajas, mostly ought to have some extravagant constructions commonly referred to as Palaces. Obviously, these must be visited, to gawk at in a manner not atypical of tourists. So here goes:-
~ River Side Palace (Navlakha Palace-17th century)
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A magnificent mansion, amidst a garden of huge trees, besides the Gondali river. Its grand Darbar Hall has a series of huge windows that open onto a long balcony overlooking the river. Large chandeliers, stuffed panthers, gilt wooden furniture and antique Belgian mirrors, reflect the ostentation of the Maharaja. Now a Heritage Hotel with 11 spacious, lavishly appointed double bedrooms. Don’t miss climbing the spiral staircases to go atop the many pleasant sit-outs on the terrace overlooking the river.
~ Orchard Palace
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The moment I reached here I tried to make better acquaintances with the many peacocks strutting about in the tree lined drive-way. I even attempted to speak in peacock-language, but none took an immediate fondness to me and flew away in a huff.
Taking this pointed rebuff in my stride, I went straight into The Orchard Palace (which incidentally, gets its name as it is amidst fruit orchards, just in case you were curious like me) Worth noticing are its lily ponds, semi circular arches, and marble statues. A collection of paintings, antique furniture, and assorted objects de art embellish the main sitting room. This too is now a Heritage Hotel with 7 stunning double rooms.
The hotel was used as Ajay Devgan’s residence in Hum Dil De Chuke Sanam, (where he drags Ash out saying ‘jhooth bardasht nahi hai mujhe”. Haan Haan, Main Bilkul Filmy Hoon)
Look! A Car & Rail Coach Collection too
You could go snooping in the royal garage at the Orchard Palace and see a Daimler from the 1920s, a 1935 Mercedes, 1935 Packard 2 door convertible, 1941 & 1947 Cadillacs, 1955 Cadillac limousine, Jaguars Delages, Chevrolets and what have you. Two Royal Rail coaches of the Gondal State keeping the original decor are at the courtyard of the Orchard Palace and may also be rented for a stay. They comprise a suite of dining room, bedroom and bathroom, with restored furniture and fittings of a bygone era.
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The Bhuvaneshwari Devi Temple
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The real reason of such tribulations of visiting Gondal was the prasad from Bhuvaneshwari Devi Temple. Someone I wish I never knew, on getting the wind of my forthcoming Rajkot trip, insisted that I must get her prasad from Devi Bhuvaneshwari’s temple at Gondal. Failing to do which, I was summarily told to never show her my ugly face again. Now I’m the last guy who would go visiting Devi Bhuvaneshwari’s temples on my own accord, but since I intend to show my ugly face time and again to her, I had to relent. The temple itself is beautiful. The Devi’s idol has 7 chhatris that glitter and rotate at the evening aarti of 7 pm.
The Swami Narayan Temple, and Bhuvaneshwari Ayurvedic Pharmacy are other places worth a quick dekko. There is also the Bhuvaneshwari Stud Farm with specimens of Kathiawadi Horses, Gir Cattle and other livestock. No such animals have ever succeeded in engaging my interest, and hence I left these premises almost as immediately as I entered them. Also, the City Palace, the most imposing of all these palaces, but is battered by years of neglect. Worse still, the Bhuj earthquake of 2001 has fatally struck its majestic entrance.
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General Info, Acco, etc.
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Gondal was hot when I went there (by that I signify the temprature) and one must take only minimal and light clothing. (Lee Cooper six-pocket, double detachable cargoes are highly recommended) Winters would require warm woolens (wah wah, how original, really!).
If you have an obscene amount of money to throw around and a company better than, say Nikhil, you could stay in one of the afore-mentioned Palaces (around INR 4500 a night). Stingy paisa pinchers, like your truly, who have people like, say Nikhil again, for company, put up in the Devi Bhuvaneshwari Temple Complex lodge at Rs. 150/- per night for a clean double room with attached bath.
Live in those luxurious hotels and play squash, take boat rides, stroll in the orchards, shop in the silver bazaar, relax in the lawns, soak in the setting sun at the Gondali river, and of course I forgot birdwatching
This is a paradise for birdwatchers. Peacocks, magpies, cuckoos, and others birds abound in the Orchard palace. From the Riverside Palace you can see owlets, ibises, waterhen, herons, and vultures. While at the river you can watch cranes, pelicans, flamingoes, and myriad species of ducks and other wading birds, in flocks of over 1000. Be sure to carry a good pair of binoculars here. Good fun!!
Bon Voyage!!