At last I saw Belur and Halebeedu – one of the most celebrated tourist destinations in Karnataka. We (my family) had been planning for this from years – me being a student of architecture and not seeing these 2 places was almost a disgrace.
Belur and Halebeedu is about 222 kms from Bangalore and going by road is the best choice and very convenient. We stayed at Hassan which is 194 kms from Bangalore. This quiet and peaceful town is a convenient base to visit Sharavanabelagola, Belur and Halebid. Hassan offers a wide variety of accommodation. It is well connected by road and rail to Bangalore, Mysore and Mangalore. Needless to state that the infrastructure surrounding the area is pretty good.
We were put up Kamat Yatrinivas – a branch of the Kamat group of hotels known for their simple, tasty south Indian food – not that food is a problem in Hassan.
Our first stop was Belur – the beauty of the Channakeshava temple is encapsulating and we cannot help noticing the number of foreigners thronging the place. The Channakeshava temple was built by the Hoysala King Vishnuvardhana in 1117 A.D to commemorate his conversion from Jainism to Vaishnavism.
The main structure of the temple, which is star shaped, is a homogeneous architectural unit raised platform. Everything is carved in black stone, looking like metal. Facing the temple, at the entrance, stands the winged figure of Garuda, Lord Vishnu’s, carrier. The 650 charging elephants fresco around the walls outside are all different from each other. The exotic bracket figures (Madanikas) on the walls of this temple look playful and inviting. Inside, even in the darkness, you can see the hand lathefurned shining pillars, each unique in its own splendour. On the smooth circular platform in front of the shrine, you can see the beautiful Shantala Devi, queen of King Vishnuvardhana. The Spotlight is now on the four famous bracket figures on the ornate ceiling. All these figures have been inspired by Shantala Devi’s voluptuous beauty.
Sculpted limbs undulate in lyrical lines. One sculpted beauty communicates with a pet parrot whose tail is peacock like, another wrings water from her long hair and you can see the drops collected on hair-ends. The delicacy and attention to the finest details here are incredible!
Halebid is 15 km from Belur. This place was known as Dwara Samudra, the wealthy capital of Hoysalas. Halebid has several strikingly beautiful Hoysala temples and Jain shrines. The Hoysaleshwara temple, standing on platform like a casket, is a sculptural extravaganza, richly endowed with most finely detailed scroll work in stone. Outside there is a Nandi (Bull), the mount of Shiva, and a hillock where the Palace stood, connected to the temple by a passage. Inside its dark depths, the queen Shantala Devi beckons from an alcove. The figure of mortals and immortals are larger here as compared to Belur and are beautifully chiseled, in shining black stone.
The walls of the temples are covered with variety of gods and goddesses, animals, birds and dancing girls. There is a museum on the lawn with 12-13th century sculpture and the gold coins in use at the time.
Another famous temple is the Keddareshwara temple where the sculptor’s virtuosity seems to have surpassed even the goldsmith’s skill in its sheer intricacy. One kilometre from Halebid is Basti Hill where there are Jain Bastis with gleaming black stone pillars.
Shravanabelagola in Hassan District is 157 km away from Bangalore is an important Jaina centre. The reason I am pointing this location also is since the above three locations are in a triangle within the same district. In fact you can watch it on the way back to Bangalore as we did. It makes sense and saves you time too.
There is a pond and two stony hills, called Chandragiri and Indragiri. Chandragiri has the Chandragupta basadi of the Gangas and the Parashwanatha basadi here is the biggest. The town below the hill has the Jaina matha whose walls have very old paintings. Indragiri has the Gommata monolith, 58 feet tall, installed by a Ganga general and scholar Chavundaraya, and also Siddhara basadi, Odegal basadi, Chennanna basadi and Chauvvisa Tirthankara basadi, and also the finely engraved pillar called Tyagada Brahma Pillar. The floral designs on it are excellent. Shravanabelagola has over 500 inscriptions, and some of them are recording death by starving (`sallekhana’) by Jaina ascetics and laymen.
All in all, a good place to visit, especially as it stands as a symbol of our nation’s culture. To cut a long story short, my visit was a must since I was a student of architecture. But I would recommend a visit atleast once if you ever come to Bangalore.