Our trip to Kerala was a short one as we had less time at disposal, and we wanted to relax and not run from pillar to post .We went to Kerala at October end and first week of November . We chalked it out like - 3 days in munnar 1 day in kumarakom backwaters .However as there is not much to be seen in Munnar so we dropped a day at Munnar for Thekkady .All these places are quite near four to five hours drive and hence plan alteration was possible .
We reached Kochi early morning and headed straight to Munnar .The highly tortuous road had many waterfalls . Munnar is pretty . Tea estates everywhere with lush greenery and cold and misty weather .Our resort was far away from the village , extremely tranquil but well furnished and well equipped . We had rented a car with driver for 5 days and hence commute was not a problem however those without a car , feel incapacitated .Munnar village has a nice spice shop and a market with local goods .There are a few ‘touristy points ‘ but don’t expect much from them as the entire region itself is so rich in beauty that you appreciate it more while driving rather than at a particular place .
We went to Eravikulam , high up over a mountain . We saw the rare animal called Nilgiri tahr , in herds , which is on the verge of extinction . They look not different from the ordinary goats .The place had very dense mist even at noon and visibility was poor .We had to carry umbrellas - probably for rains but the moisture thawed and made us wet .We also visited a place called ‘ high point ‘. It is supposed to give a very vivid view of the region . However , this place had such dense mist that no one was allowed to go- there was no visibility at all .I would like to repeat that enjoy this place as you drive past those tea estates . Anairankal , Nyamakkad are fabulous places on the way . Matupetty dam is good .Echo point however is the most stunning place in Munnar and one should not miss it .
The journey from Munnar to Thekkady is memorable . In the initial half you are surrounded from all the sides with the tea estates and in the later half there are dense spice plantations . Kumily , a small village on the way , located in the spice plantations has a spice market .Thekkady has Periyar wild life sanctuary - which is located on many islands in dam backwaters , I guess . Here you are supposed to book a boat which ferries you thru the backwaters and you can see wild animals who come to drink water at the edge . You will not be disappointed , unless if you are expecting too much , as indeed you see many animals .We saw wild boars , deers and many animals we did not know the names of .
Unlike Munnar , Thekkady is a little developed . There are places where you can eat , buy curios and spices .There is a street full of massage parlors .We had the first experience of Kerala Ayurvedic massage . It was a little awkward though spending an hour and a half stark naked with the masseur , suspicious of being filmed . But the experience was very relaxing and oily !
The journey from Thekkady to Kumarakom was again a different experience . As we descended the spice plantations thinned to rubber plantations which look nice particularly with the black bark and green plastic bags around the trunk .In Kumarakom we got in a houseboat , our sojourn for a day, a home which moves along . Backwaters I guess is somewhat like this - there is a large lake called Vembanad which opens in the sea . This lake has many islands in it which convert the lake into many alleys of fresh sweet water . Aptly this place is called the Venice of the east .
Houseboats are extremely attractive to look at and comfortable to stay in . They have a lounge where you can send the entire day watching the beauty , a bedroom with attached bath and a kitchen where the accompanying ferrymen cook food out of the fresh catch on the way . However they come in humongous variety - look at your valet and book it .We were a little disappointed with the ferrymen as they were absolutely reluctant to tell us anything as the boat sailed - we just sailed - guessing the things around . The islands had tiny picture perfect villages .Everything in these villages was on the water’s edge - including the post office . Local people would take ferries and visit places of work .
Children went to school in ferries . They had a bus with a conducter - the difference being that the bus was actually a boat which sailed in the backwaters .People would catch fish from the water for meals , wash there clothes in the water , drink the water , have bath in the water and many more things .The place is full of water hyacinth which I think should be removed unless if necessary for the ecobalance .Many snake birds sit on twigs and fly around . We halted for the night on an island , of course we never had to leave the boat as everything was available here -the meals being cooked in the kitchen in the boat .Our last day was spent in Kochi . Kochi is just like any other Indian cities , and not much to talk about .We found the fish market amusing - fresh caught fishes , lobsters etc are kept in the market right on the seashore . These fishes , believe in me or not , are moving and still breathing . You have to buy them and give it to a person right there who cooks them in front of you .
Kerala has its drawbacks also .People expect too much from the tourists and are brazenly corrupt .Our driver , for an instance , expected free food and snacks when actually we were not supposed too provide them as he was well paid for them . We fed him at times , but his expectations grew . He also expected commission from the shop owners , hotels , masseurs , restaurants and wherever he took us ; we realized it on very first day as we understood that these above mentioned businessmen are quoting very high prices .We never let him succeed so he started skipping places of interest .And on the last two days he became offensively arrogant and impudent .We were later told that the houseboat ferrymen also serve you very well if you give them a tip
.The second problem was of language barrier - leave aside Hindi , English is also not well understood and spoken .The third problem we faced was lack of hotels in Munnar and Kumarakom . We literally starved thru’out our journey .Kerala is trying hard to sell tourism and indeed it is pretty , but it lacks proffesionalism except in five star resorts .I love tourist places to be a little laid back and natural , and not very ‘spoiled with development ‘;however a little bit of commercialization eases the things for tourists making there trip smooth .
Overall Kerala is a must see but with a pinch of salt .