I visited Krakow on a weekend getaway from Stuttgart in November 2014. I first heard about the city during my stay in Prague from an American woman staying at the same hostel I was, while I was there in the same year. Sometime afterwards, after having visited several other places, out of personal interest, I did a lot of reading on Poland. A lot of places piqued my interest - Schezin, Gdansk, Wroclaw, Katowice, Warsaw and I thought about visiting these places. But ultimately, after mulling a lot about it, I decided on visiting Krakow, the old capital of Poland.
It may seem like Poland is just across the border from Germany and it surely is. However, going from south-west Germany towards south-east Poland is covering a lot of ground. You actually have the similar sort of distance between Switzlerland and Slovakia and there are several countries in between. One can go by plane or by bus. But one has to change planes to get there, and the tickets would have to be booked a bit in advance. So, I opted for a bus service. I booked a journey through **SINDBAD** bus lines who have good connectivity from Germany to various places in Poland. So, if one leaves on a Friday evening, one would reach by about noon, the next day. That’s what I did. Around 17 hours from Stuttgart.
*DAY 1*
I thought about stopping briefly in Katowice, one stop before Krakow which was also the place where an old chat friend of mine was from. But eventually, I dropped the idea and stuck to my original plan. Having reached in the afternoon, I first checked in to a hostel which I had booked earlier. There are several, close to the stations in the city.
Feeling ravenous, I didn’t waste any time in trying out the local specialty there, *Pierogi*. Very nice indeed!
Since half the day had already passed, I thought the best option was to visit ***Wieliczka Salt Mines*** because they had tours till very late in the evening and I had the option of booking the same right from the hostel where I was put up.
Wieliczka Salt Mines:* I was accompanied by several other tourists from England, Australia, U.S.A. and other parts of Europe. I don’t vouch to do justice to it, if I described what I saw there in words. Nobody could. A huge labyrinthine series of underground caverns and passages, inclusive of lakes, chapels and several sculptures, it houses several stunning masterpieces made of ’salt’. The salt in question is ’rock salt’. Apparently, over a period of working of around 900 years in the salt mines there were 200 kilometres of passages and around 2, 040 caverns. For the initial descent one has to travel both by elevator, and after a certain point, on foot. One would be completely surprised with what all could be made just out of ’salt’. It was all a treat to watch. Some people even tasted the salt to convince themselves that it was really salt.:) It is supposed to be one of 2 of the largest salt mines in Europe, the other being in Romania and the oldest. Also, a UNESCO World Heritage site. There are sculptures even from the 13th and the 14th century. Some of the sculptures sort of cover some historical periods. Legend goes, at one point of time some princess lost her ring in the mines and several people were summoned to retrieve it, which they were able to do eventually, finding it embedded in a rock.
After marveling at he salty wonders at the mines and meeting several other people in the course of doing so, I headed back to the hostel. The hostel was amazing by itself, because of the staff, how it was maintained and the tourists, ranging from pretty much all over the world. I think there were 3 or 4 women named "Anna" amongst the hostel staff, at the time. The name of the hostel was a bit strange but it was supposed to symbolise "vibrant buzz" rather than the literal meaning. For sure, it was a vibrantly buzzing place.;) There was dinner at the hostel and it was followed by several fun activities which included just about anything. I talked to a lot of people here including people from Brazil, England, Ireland, Scotland, U.S.A., Australia and Peru and made some good friends. Some of them went out partying later. I was too tired and stayed back. I talked with an Australian woman, a guy from Peru and Australia while playing **Uno** with them, until I felt it was time to retire for the day.
*DAY 2*
My aim was to cover **Old Town**, **Wawel Hill & Castle** and **Kazimierz** this day. The reason for following this sequence was that it was placed in that order if one were to walk. I had a map and one could take the free walking tour or try it yourself. I think I primarily took the walking tour in this case. So, next morning, after breakfast at a nearby place (Pierogi and Compot), I set off.
Old Town Square:* Also called Rynek Square, this is supposed to be the largest square amongst European medieval cities. It doesn’t feel any less with regards to the hustle-bustle, compared to something like Brussels or Prague, with a plethora of cafes and shops. Perhaps, some of the monuments, museums and the shopping arcade for knick-knacks and several other items somewhere in the middle, make the square itself seem a bit extra special.
Adam Mickiewicz Monument:* Adam was a romantic Polish poet, based on which the bronze sculpture is made. It was made as part of some competition. The picture of the same does not look like much in a picture, but when you’re actually there, it makes for great viewing.
Eros Bendato:* This is another bronze work of art by an old artist and is basically a bronze head, located in the middle of the square. It was originally just put there as a gift to the people of the city, and has now become a major tourist attraction. Not surprising, as it is quite conspicuous, despite all the great monuments surrounding it. Nice place for photographs and a lot of tourists typically play around with the head.
St. Mary’s Basilica:* This church was ruined somewhere in the 13th century by an invasion and resurrected in Gothic style in the 1300s. It also sports a pair of unequal spires, like a church in the main square of Prague. There is a bugle call that blows here as a tradition, at the stroke of every hour to commemorate the death of a certain trumpeter who was sounding the alarm before a past Mongol attack on the city. It breaks off mid-way to replicate the memory of the trumpeter’s death. The church itself is a sight to behold, and supposedly serves as a model for several other churches. Not surprised to know that.
Cloth Hall:* The Cloth Hall itself was a centre of international trade in the olden times, located at the centre of the square. But is now a museum. There is also some interesting history regarding a dagger placed close to one of the entrances. The building itself is quite nice to look at, although I didn’t visit this museum.
Town Hall Tower:* This is a Gothic stone tower which stands 70 m tall and leans a bit, resulting from an ancient storm. Only remnant building from the Old Town Hall. The entrance is guarded by two lion sculptures. Provides a good backdrop to take pictures.
Also located at an edge of the Old Town Square are **Church of St. Adalbert** or the **Church of St. Wojciech**.
Florianska Gate:* It is one of the very few monuments marking the old defense of the Old Town. Supposedly 34.5 m tall, erected in 1307, it was also the main entrance to the city in medieval times. Located at the edge of Old Town, it was the road royalty used to walk on their way to Wawel castle. That’s also the route I took, actually.
Barbican:* It is another Gothic structure which marks the defence during medieval times with 130 defensive slots for archers and riflemen. It used to connect to the Florianska Gate by means of a drawbridge owing to the moat surrounding it. Does not stand out as a great work of architecture, but more for its significance during olden times.
Like all Da Vinci murals, the one that Krakow houses also has obvious appeal being one of very few - **The Lady with the Ermine** located in Czartoryski Museum. It falls on the way to Wawel Castle from Old Town, more or less somewhere around the Royal Road.
Church of Saints Peter & Paul:* Erected around 1600s, it is considered by many as Krakow’s premier church. The main attraction here is the statues of the 12 disciples at the gate. I found to be a nice work to be looked at, however probably not as grand as it was made out to be.
Holy Trinity Basilica:* This was nice to look at, kind of stands out. Was erected in 1250 by some Bolognese friars. Some image inside it is supposed to have healing powers, although I didn’t explore that much.
Collegium Miaus:* This is the oldest college at the oldest and best Polish Jagiellonian University, built in the 15th century, Gothic style with courtyards and arcades. Located close to the main square, it is interesting to explore the same.
The main feature here is the musical clock which has 2 doors from which we see a procession of historical figures marching out in opposite directions, dancing to 2 different melodies controlled by a computerised system. This clock supposedly has been reconstructed 4 times since 1465.
There is also a conspicuous Copernicus monument here, in one of the courtyards.
Kanonicza Street:* This is a picturesque and important street of Krakow, actually a part of the Royal Road from Old Town to Wawel Castle. It is lined with Renaissance and Baroque architecture on both sides. The buildings make for very different viewing with murals and passageways at places leading to vacant courtyards.
I also saw some other churches along the way from Old Town to Wawel Castle which I didn’t quite recognize. But the city is abound with great monuments and buildings, somewhat like Prague. Several cobble-stoned roads and horse carriages also remind you of Prague. There are also a lot of costumed people doing stuff at the main square, which definitely draws your attention.
Wawel Castle:* The main castle residency was built according to the wishes of "Casimir 3, The Great", who ruled from 1333 to 1370. But the entire castle was not built in one era. There are certain chambers and towers which were added during different periods, over the years like the "Hen’s Foot Tower", "Danish Tower" and "Jadwiga Chamber" and several others which is why it’s a mixture of Romanesque, Renaissance and Gothic architecture.
It also has a great museum featuring varied artwork. Quite a beautiful place to be and have a walk around.
Wawel Dragon:* Just beside the castle, on the Wisla riverbank, is a likeness of the Wawel Dragon, once supposed to have marauded the grounds, terrorizing sheep and virgins according to local legend, who rested in a cave nearby when not active. It had to be appeased with daily food to prevent its derelict ways. King Krakus called upon his sons to eliminate the monster. They stuffed cattle skin with smouldering Sulphur and the dragon took the bait. The easily combustible substance meant that dragon ended up combusting itself meeting its fiery death.
The statue erected near the castle, is a great tourist attraction, with the dragon breathing fire periodically. Apparently, it came into being in 1972. There is a Wawel Cathedral nearby, which has bones of pre-historic animals at the entrance. But one can’t really say if it belongs to a dragon.
Next stop at this point, was Kazimierz. It is a historical independent city in the district of Krakow, separated by a branch of Vistula river. It came into being between the 14th and 19th century. It is a cultural centre and is primarily known for the Jewish Quarters.
We visited several Synagogues here, while exploring this segment of the city.
High Synagogue:* This is the third oldest synagogue in Krakow, dating back to 1563. Home to some murals, a Holy Ark and two Griffins, it is widely known here.
Isaac Synagogue:* This was quite nice to look at. The architecture style is supposed to be baroque with decorative structures. A gift to the city by a wealthy jew in 1644, it is known for the wall scriptures.
Old Synagogue:* This dates back to 15th and 16th centuries and is the oldest example of religious architecture of Poland. It houses several exhibits, although I did not venture deep into the same.
Temple Synagogue:* This is the newest synagogue of Kazimierz, dating back to 1862. It was used as a stable during Nazi era. Currently, it is used for religious ceremonies and concerts.
Many of these synagogues had to endure arson at the times of old wars. But the important parts are restored.
I walked around the Jewish quarters for a while. Besides the synagogues, the general architecture of buildings also makes for interesting viewing and some of them are related to important events and some historical figures.
We also walked along up to the Schindler’s factory in the Podgorze district of Krakow (right bank of Vistula river) which is also very famous here, although I decided against visiting it that day. Along the way, there is place near a bridge where a scene from the film *Schindler’s List* was shot. The Podgorze district itself has several interesting buildings to watch.
After this, I returned to the hostel, back to Old Town. That day, Indian food was on the menu for dinner. It was made in a somewhat Polish way, I suppose. But was nice. I think that was also the day, some of the ladies I was conversing with, at the hostel convinced me to try "Tequila shots", I think it was. Wasn’t bad. I made some conversation with some, and dozed off later.
*DAY 3*
This day I had planned to visit Auschwitz-Birkenau concentration camp, located some distance away from the city.
I think I traveled by bus to the main Auschwitz camp.
The way they have preserved the camp is quite impressive. There was significant cloud cover and mist on that day, which made the concentration camp seem eerie, like the setting of some haunted area in flash video games. The history is very well preserved here. There are text boards and audio aids whichever section you go, in case one wants it. What the concentration camp members used to wear, what they endured, what clothing they used to wear, what food they used to get, what was their daily regimen etc. There were some very old artifacts and cells preserved from that era which give you a good idea of what the occupants used to undergo. A whole history of who came into power when, and did what during what era is also documented and some videos of that period are also available. There are several buildings dedicated to housing various sections.
In a separate section of the camp, there were also gas chambers and other torture chambers for the camp members. How the torture instruments used to work, is detailed quite vividly here. Supposedly, when they wanted to eliminate the population of the camp quickly, some chosen members were subjected to surprise acid baths or subjected to some other methods like gassing or burning them. There were specific devices made for the same. Another method was a "Hunger Plan" which aimed at death by starvation, among several others.
It opened in 1940 and was the largest Nazi concentration camp. Jewish, non-Jewish Poles and Soviet prisoners were supposed to be the main prisoners here.
There was the option of taking a bus further to **Birkenau** concentration camp and I took it. This one was actually more creepy, although it housed lesser buildings and items to see.
There is a railroad running the entire length from the gate to sections of the camp. The various sections of the camp included graveyards and quarters for women, children and men. I visited some of the quarters. You get an idea of how the residents use to live in those times. The stench in some of them tells you that they were really old, and you kind of feel something actually must have happened there in the past. Somewhat similar feeling to visiting some places in Rajasthan, when you get this feeling that something was really there.
I was gazing at some of the graveyards. I remember gazing at a children’s graveyard thinking about some of the half dug up ones, when a guy approached me and started sharing his sympathies about not hurting the children etc. He was repeatedly pointing at a certain graveyard, although that was one of the empty ones. It was as if he was seeing something. Really strange. After murmuring for a while, he left. After a while, so did I. I traveled back to the main city. My feeling was this was a more well preserved camp compared to Dachau camp in Munich, where also I’ve been to, previously. But there you hardly see anything. It’s mostly reading the writings. Here, you actually see stuff kept intact from olden times.
I had considered leaving Krakow that day. As I sat mulling this at the bus station, I met a Swiss woman who was waiting for her bus to Ukraine. We conversed about life in general, spanning several topics for a while. But it was getting late, her bus was about to arrive and I decided I would leave the next day.
In the evening, together with some of my UNO card playing mates at the hostel, we decided we would watch a film. We watched *Interstellar* at a theater somewhere in the Jewish Quarters. It was good fun.
*DAY 4*
I retook some pictures in **Kanonicza Street**. It struck me as a very unique stretch of road. Other than that, the main aim was to just roam around the city, a bit.
In the course of doing so, I visited **Rakowicki Cemetery**, which had come into being in 1800-1802 when some old church cemeteries were banned by the government. It houses graves of both ordinary citizens and several celebrity figures. The thing about this cemetery is it abounds in some great architectural gems and is further adorned with a lot of decoratives. I haven’t come across a more decorated cemetery till date.
I roamed around this place for a few hours and ultimately headed back towards the hostel, after exploring the city a bit. I think I had *Polecamy* and *Pierogi* for lunch at a food outlet outside.
Finally, in the evening, after collecting a souvenir or so near the main square, it was time to bid goodbye to the new acquaintances / friends and I headed back to Stuttgart by a **SINDBAD** bus.
*OTHER THINGS ABOUT KRAKOW*
There is a very well maintained tram network in the city which one can use to travel or one could also walk around. Most places are very walkable.
Currency accepted here in most places is Zloty, so you have to get that exchanged at one of several exchange offices. One could also exchange them back to Euros when required.
People are in general, quite helpful and nice.
One might want to check out the Bishop’s Palace, the second largest palace here. Planty, an important defensive fortification, some other churches and museums if one so desires. I think I may have covered Bishop’s Palace briefly.
The place was quite economical, overall.
*In conclusion**, I’d like to say visiting Krakow was a great experience. Although it had enough unique elements of its own, it did remind me a lot about Prague and maybe it also has some good things one visits places like Munich and Salzburg for. I had an enjoyable time during the course of my stay there, with the local residents, tourists and while exploring the delectable place itself. I would definitely recommend it as a lovely place to visit.