We were planning a trip to Nainital and Corbett but wanted to visit one of the higher and little known uncrowded places also. And after a lot of research we ended up in deciding on Binsar.
Binsar is a hill whose base station is Almora 28 km away. This is largely pristine, unspoiled forest which was converted into Binsar Sanctuary in 1988.
We drove from Corbett to Almora and then onwards towards Binsar. The road is good and within minutes we were at the forest check point where we had to pay a small entry fee for entrance into the national park. The large area of about 300 square km of forest covered hill has only 5 properties where one can stay.
The lowest (by altitude) is the Mahindra Resort which is in a valley and has almost no views of the mountains directly. The second appeared before us a km inside the forest check point and is the Mountain Resort at the Khali Estate. This is a nice sprawling place with cottages having a direct view of the peaks. It has electricity and has facilities for room heaters at an extra charge. We headed further up.
At a height of 7500 feet, we were greeted by a small sign pointing towards a dirt trail up the hill. The sign said, ’’Binsar resort - come and get lost’’. On turning our Qualis into the track, we ascended about 400 feet of what we thought was a killing incline. However more was to come. We came upon a small level patch of ground which was the ’parking’ area. Mr. Bisht of the Binsar Resort met us there with a Gypsy. We were helped out of the Qualis and shifted into the Gypsy. He grinned and said, the track ahead cannot be covered by any 2 wheel drive vehicle and we shall proceed in the Gypsy.
I can just describe the short drive up the hill through 4 U turns and the thick forest as unforgettable. The wheels of the Gypsy had a hard time gripping the ground and time and again we were scared out of our skins, thinking that the vehicle would slip out of control into the steep valleys. Mr Bisht rather enjoyed our discomfiture and smiled back at us. ’’Dont worry, everything is under control’’. he said.
After the 14 min drive, which looked like hours to me, we came upon the Resort proper. Helping hands guided us towards the ’reception’, which was an elegant two storeyed structure with a dining room on the bottom and a lounge on the top. We were then taken to our tents (yes, tents!) where we were to stay.
The resort has a total of 5 tents, which are made upto 3 feet of height with solid wood and there after by 3 layers of polyester and tarpaulin tent. The size of the tent is about 18 by 20 feet, there is a king sized double bed, a small wood cupboard and stool and there is an attached bath and toilet with running water. The water is collected from a forest stream up hill and piped to the resort. There is a basin and mirror inside the bath area. This was in November and was freezing cold. We were provided with solar powered lanterns and a torch for company. It was past dusk when we reached there and so couldnt see the country side at that time.
We were served a warm dinner at 8 and soon retired to our tents for the night. Large hot water bottles were provided to keep us warm through the night. The place has no electricity and it runs totally with solar powered lanterns and regular lanterns. We went to bed and zipped our tents (all three layers had zips to close the entrance). We were apprehensive of the cold and were prepared thoroughly, wearing our inner warmers, the pyjamas and then the sweaters and gloves and caps and socks. However the bed clothes provided were top class and the blankets and rajais were very very effective.
After a good night’s sleep, we woke at 7 in the morning and peeked out. Boy, werent we surprised. I would say, dumb struck was the proper word. We found ourselves to be on a hill top with the glistening peaks of the Himalyan ranges right before us. All around us was lush, green forest of oak and rhododendron. Since it was the off season, the only occupants of the resort were the two families that were us. My friend and his wife were in another tent, about 100 feet away and 20 feet below us. We gathered together to have tea at the most beautiful place we had even been to till now. I have no doubts that having steaming tea and biscuits with the sun’s first rays playing on the peaks of Nanda Devi, while the gentle but cold breeze blows against your face is the most exotic experience ever.
Hot water was soon provided, (we learned later that this was done using a gas based geyser in the kitchen), and after a bath we proceeded to the kitchen for breakfast. It consisted of toast, eggs, noodles, parothas and coffee. We climbed onto the highest maachan on the resort and were provided with binoculars to watch the wildlife, though there wasnt much except some deer that we could spot. A very helpful guide then took us trekking to the highest point or rather the peak of the Binsar hill. This trek was through dense forest and we could see the moss, the wild flowers and all kinds of vegetation. The hill top or zero point as it was called had a great view of the Himalyan ranges, including Nanda devi, Trishul, Pindari Glacier and of course Badrinath and kedarnath.
We then walked another trail and came upon the other property, the Kumaon Tourist Mandal’s guest house, which was also nice and which too had no electricity. We stopped there for coffee and then walked to see the Shiv temple and then back to the resort. We crossed the Forest Department’s rest house on the way back. It was a 8 km trek and had stiumulated our appetite no end. Lunch was ready and we waded into chapatis, mixed vegetables, soup, rice, dal, and all the rest. The afternoon was spent lazing about on the armchairs outside the tents and just having the time or our life relaxing and feeling really on top of the world. We had asked for french fries with the evening tea and they were there right away.
A bon fire was lit at dusk and pakodas were served alongwith delicious rhododendron juice. The night sky was crystal clear and we could also see the lights of Almora town shimmering in the distance below. There was no other manmade sound, the nearest civilisation being miles away. It was soon time for another delicious dinner near the warm fireplace in the dining room. This time the cook did pizzas and chowmein and pasta! Boy, werent we delighted?
The next morning it was time to leave for Nainital and we left with heavy hearts. Mr. Bisht gave us porcupine thorns as souvenirs to keep. The drive down the hill and the forest was also pleasant and we were thankful for this opportunity to be with Nature at such a close quarter.
We vowed to return soon one day.