Take a retreat from Rajasthan’s searing heat to a little town, in Rajasamand district, famous for its exuberant festivals, paintings, meena work, sinful cuisine and home to one the wealthiest temples in India. Nathdwara
The hub of activity here, is the Shrinathji Temple. It is a simple structure, built like a haveli. A black marble, incrately engraved idol of Lord Krishna with his hand upraised lifting the Govardhan Hill is placed in the temple. The Lord wears a large diamond beneath his lips.
Shrinathji resides in regal splendour and is served as a royal child. Darshans can be sought 8 times in the day. For each of the 8 darshans, the Lord is given different costumes. Hordes of devotees rush into the temple space during these darshans that last for merely a few seconds.
Live classical music plays in the Haveli as you walk through its perfumed marble halls. Traditionally dressed Pankhawalas pull on the large cloth fans to cool the interiors. Dhols and Nagaras are played to announce the Darshans. Doorways of the haveli are painted by drawings of elephants, horses, maidens.
I was lucky enough to catch a live Raas Leela performed by a few teenage performing artistes replete with fine costumes and jewelry. The finest of dances, and full-throated singing was performed as a replication of Radha-Krishna leelas.
Nathdwara has other temples dedicated to Madana Mohana, Naveet Priya, all located near the main Shrinathji temple.
Once you have seen the temples, its time to walk about this little town, and explore the beauty of Rajasthani art and savor its cuisine.
Eat, eat n eat
At breakfast time in Nathdwara, I had a wide array to choose from.
Should I go and grab some hot steaming batata poha sprinkled with lemon and coriander leaves served in leaf cups?
Or should I have those huge yellow colored ribbon-like gaathiyaa served hot with juicy raddishes at Shriji restarurant?
Or should I simply go to the jalebi stall and have jalebis fresh off the frying pan, dipping them in a glass of thick creamy hot milk?
Or should I have a plate of that rich gooey rabdi?
I chose ALL.
Lunch time? Have some of the fieriest rajasthani delicacies (Daal baati, gatte ki sabzi) in any of the restaurants in Nathdwara’s by-lanes. Eat those spicy treats and you’ll be running like a salivating comet on fire. If you do not like your food so spicy there is always the Gujarati thaali wherein everything is mixed with oodles of jaggery.
What to Buy
Pichhwai paintings
Pichhwais are large paintings portraying ShriNathji in various costumes and moods. These are hung behind the Lord’s idol (hence the name, Pichhwai) The themes of the paintings are raas leelas or festivals, depicting events in the god’s life. Traditional pichhwais use vegetable/ mineral colours (these do not fade for years) and are sold at exorbitant prices. Now commercial colours have replaced them and newer pichhwais are much within the affordable range. Don’t even think of going back home without at least one Pichhwai.
Meena Work
The Meena work of Nathdwara is a must buy. A must are the Meena work jharokhas which depending on the size range from Rs. 2500 to Rs. 8000. Those done more intricately and ornately go much higher. In Bombay, the same things are 4-5 times the rates. The jharokhas, the jhulas, and the baithaks done in Meena are worth buying for your home.
Ladies can pick up good silver stuff from here. Traditional ornaments and household decoration pieces in silver have excellent banaavat (craftsmanship) peculiar to Nathdwara.
Besides, one could also pick some delicious sweets, oil-based natural attars, quilts, etc. Terracotta sculpture pieces are other good buys.
At the local library, I browsed through Rajasthani Sahitya and found excellent Hindi titles that I could never lay my hands on in Bombay.
However, the township per se is dirty and not well kept. Pigs and beggars are a pesky nuisance.
Nearby Attractions
Haldighati, where Maharana Pratap fought his last historic battle is situated nearby. (25 kms), the castle of Kumbhal Machind, Charbujaji temple (60 kms), Dwarkadheesh temple (25 kms), the stunning architecture of Eklingji (28 kms) are all worth visiting
The festivals of Nathdwara
Though I haven’t witnessed any of these I heard from locals that certain festivals are the best times to visit Nathdwara. Jhulan Yatra during June/July and Janmashtami.
Since summers are searingly hot , the best time to go to Nathdwara is from Sept to Nov. March-April is good time to go during Holi.
Reasonably good hotels and guest houses like Valabh Darshan, Gopal Niwas, Hotel Utsav, and Dheeraj Dham are close to the main temple complex, while a luxurious Heritage Resort at Eklingji is about 25 km away.
The city of Udaipur is around 60 kms from Nathdwara. Do try and club in Nathdwara with your Udaipur trip, it’s a great place for its handicrafts and temples.