Moosonee- a name that one is not likely to forget in ahurry. I had my chance to stay at this place in the summer of 2006 and what follows are a few of my experiences that shall be forever etched in my mind.
Location- Moosonee is located in Northern Ontario, Canada and can be located at the place where the Moose River empties itself into the James Bay to the north. Actualy there are two locations-Moosonee on the western bank and Moose Factory on the island in the middle of the Moose River. Though only about 500 metres across, there is no bridge and can be reached by the ferry or water taxis in the summer and the ice bridge in the winter when the river freezes up. The crossing is not possible during the breakup in the spring, when the only way is by helicopter.
People- Both Moosonee and Moose Factory have an approximate population of about 2500 each, with a majority of 85% Cree. The others are outsiders who serve in the Police, Railway, Airport or the Hospital. The locals do not have a steady source of income as there are no industries or services to speak of. Hence, a majority of them work for the Government or are on welfare.They are mainly Christian of various denominations, who were converted by the missionaries, whose presence is evident in the half dozen churches that are important landmarks.
How to get there- Moosonee does not have a road link. Thereis the Ontario Northland railroad that has a regular service three times a week from Cochrane- a trip that takes about 5 hours. In the summer there is the Polar Bear express that runs for two months bringing in the tourists who want to have a taste of the north. The tourist train returns back the same day whereas the Little Bear returns the next day. Reservations are required and the trip is pretty boring with nothing much to see with only the marsh and thes tunted trees forming part of the landscape- The trees don’t grow very high due to poor drainage and the permafrost. You can also connect by air through Timmins to the Moosonee airport. The airlines that serve this route are Air Creebec, Thunder Air and Air Wabush, which is primarily a charter service. The planes used here are pretty small and it’s a nice experience traveling in them.
What to see/do- The tourists who come during the summer do get disappointed when taken around the town in two school buses that are operated by the Two Bay Tours. This is primarily due to the hard sell that is given by the tour operators who paint such a rosy picture that one feels let down by the two and a half streets that greet them! For a person like me who was staying and working there, one sees it through different eyes. Thecommunity has made itself comfortable and one can see the laid back attitude of the people who reside here. The focal point is the Weenebayanko General Hospital which has a long history and serves as a first line of care for the area and the neighbouring towns of Kashechewan, Fort Albany, Attawapiskat and the Dee Beers Diamond Mines that are located further up the coast. The development of Moosonee by the French in the early 1600s was to negate the growing influence of the Hudsons Bay Company and the signs of the early wars between the French and the British are all so evident on the Moose Factory Island. Hence one has to see the whole area in the proper perspective and appreciate it as such. Also one must not give up on the opportunity to see the large schools of the Beluga Whale which are abundant in the James Bay region- of course one needs to get out a bit into the Bay to do that. The local artifacts are not much to talkabout since most of them are not made there but in the factories of China! Almost all conveniences are available like cable TV, internet, grocery stores etc. The Northland chain has a store which has all the daily requirements. Another attraction here is the fishing – ice-hole fishing during the winter time. Sincet his area was a part of a large water body, you come across fossils lying loose even when taking a walk around.
Finally, you must be wondering as to why I am writing about a place that nothing much to speak about. For one, I had some great experiences with the wonderful and friendly people who live and work there. During my work with the Air Ambulance, I happened to interact with locals in various locations and found them to be very nice and enterprising. The hardships they endure in the winter with very low sub zero temperatures, no communication besides the train out from there, very basic schooling/education, lack of opportunity and whole lot of bugs, mosquitoes and black flies in the summer- they dont complain and live happily.The coming of the Dee Beers to mine the area for diamonds has opened a new vista for them and it can only improve from here onwards.