Pondicherry, the former French colony, settled in the early 18th century, is a charming and enduring pocket of French culture set beside the sea. Together with the other former French enclaves of Karaikal (Tamil Nadu), Mahe (Kerala) and Yanam (Andhra Pradesh), it now forms the Union Territory of Pondicherry.
Unlike Goa, where the only firm reminders of the Portuguese are the Cathedrals, here there are hints of the previous owners everywhere, despite the fact that the French relinquished control over their colony some forty years ago.
Extensive restoration work of the buildings in the centre has been undertaken by the Aurobindo Ashram, the Alliance Francaise and other bodies. The French influence is also reflected, as one might expect, in the food. There are some excellent restaurants serving everything from bouillabalsse to creme caramel to die for. As in their colonies, the French soon sought out a good source of mineral water, and bottled Pondicherry water is by far the best in India.
The Aurobindo Ashram, and its offshoot, Auroville, are always there to lift your spirits. Auroville is 10km outside the town, and a longer stay here is necessary. Karma Yoga in action always at Auroville.
Founded by Shri Aurobindo in 1926, Sri Aurobindo Ashram is one of the most popular in India among westerners, and is very affluent too. Its spiritual tenets represent a synthesis of Yoga nd modern science. After Sri Aurobindo’s death, spiritual authority passed to one of his devotees, a French woman known as The Mother, who herself died in 1973 at the age of 97. These days the Ashram underwrites, promotes and organises a lot of cultural and educational activities in Pondicherry.
The other attractions in Pondicherry are the Museum, the Police Museum and the Botanical Gardens.
I had two training mates from Pondicherry at Gandhigram in 1955 - Rahimattullah and Pillai. The former was very fluent in French, and left the training in the mid-way to go to France on a french scholarship. Pillai had a very shrill voice, and stayed on till the completion of training. From him I had learnt a lot about Pondicherry, and with him, a few of us did visit Pondicherry. I think we went to Villupuram by train, and then drove to Pondicherry. We were lucky to have the Darshan of The Mother.
Sri Aurobindo, born on 15 August, was prophetic when he had said that India’s destiny would be changed on his birthday. It happened !