Pondicherry is a beautiful town on the Coromandel Coast, a perfect getaway for a weekend. It’s sunny year round so be prepared to get toasted. The best way to reach Pondicherry is by road, Chennai is 150 kms and Bangalore 321 kms away. Initially trains from Bangalore went only till Cuddalore, but a weekly train now plies to Pondicherry. The main station is a delightful monument in itself, usually deserted and therefore very clean.
Pondicherry passed hands from the Portugese, French, British and eventually free India. The influences of each of these can be seen in the architecture, food and administration. Most recently it has been taken over by the followers of Aurobindo Rishi and you are bound to trip over Bengalis every few centimeters all over the city.
The Aurobindo followers also set up Auroville(15 kms from the city), here Matrimandir is a must see. Auroville a pleasant satellite town, set among dense foliage and forest, is a popular destination for home stays and also to check out the very popular cottage industries, products of which are sold in the Matrimandir campus….handmade paper, clothes, cheeses and handicrafts of all kinds(overpriced but fancy enough to be bought in small quantities.
Before exploring the city pick up a map from the tourist office on the promenade. It also runs full and half day tours to all the destinations in and around city. The best way to get around city is to hire a two wheeler from the auto shops on Calve or Chetty streets for Rs.200-400 a day. Ride around both the French and the tamil quarter(on the other side of Mission street) to get a feel of the place. There are beautiful houses, well maintained and the residents are gracious enough to show you around if you request.
There are many churches to take in, give the cool and beautiful interiors some time. Though Immaculate Conception Cathedral on Mission Street and Sacred Heart Church on South Boulevard are the more popular sights, my personal favourite is the crumbling Eglise the Notre Dame Des Anges. To visit museums check the holidays and afternoon siesta timings before planning a visit.
The main market on JN street is just another town market but there are steals to be had at the Hidesign stores(there are two facing each other), where the products are usually marked down by 20-25% from the market price elsewhere. Pondicherry is an antique furniture collectors heaven, there are boutique stores all over the French quarter who deliver in all major metros. But if these are above your budget, drive down the ECR to get bargain basement deals from roadside shacks and emporiums.
The promenade is the place to be in the evening. It starts coming to life around 4 in the evening and stay to your hearts content as most festivals and fairs are held either near the Gandhi statue on promenade or nearby.
But the star attraction of Pondicherry is the many beaches on the East Coast Road. An early morning visit to one of the beaches is quite an experience, with the incoming tide and sun rising beyond the horizon. Watch the fisherman bring in their catch during late morning and it’s delightful to watch them sort the shell fish despite the smell.
There is plenty to choose from, cuisine wise. We tried Coffee House on Chetty street and loved the pongal and vadas. Try luscious ice-creams from Ajanthas’ on the promenade, French cuisine on the roof top restaurant.Randevouz(on Suffren Street) or the hand tossed pizzas from Pizzeria. If you get tired of eating fancy food or even South Indian take a Rs 20 coupon for an amazingly simple meal in the Ashram mess. There are usually long lines and the lunch starts at 11 am.
No visit to the place can be long enough as time just ambles by before its time to go back.