I dedicate this review to the memory of Mr. Suresh Hinduja - an outstanding and very generous cuisine connoisseur who helped and inspired so many people.
Bangalore’s’Darshini’s are informal cafe-style eateries that are excellent representatives of local quick-eats. "Tiffin" items are popular - Dosa, Vada-Idly, Bisi bele bath(local delicacy of savoury lentil-rice-vegetable blend like a porridge/risotto). The bonus is killer coffee if you know where to find it.
S.N Refreshments in the mostly residential suburb of J.P.Nagar has been ruling the roost here for nearly forty years. The concise menu has high-quality food and spiffy coffee swiftly served to perennial crowds. For meals, one should go to other places - Tiffin items / casual eats are the feature here. There are no seats - you will have to stand and eat, with the luxury of depositing your plate on counters. The proprietor "Bhattru" has been here from day one and crisply operates the bill counter, kitchen pass while saying Hi to his customers. If you don’t see the crowds, it either means the place is closed or that there is a serious bandh / industrial action strike.
I was here when the place was inaugurated in the late 80s/ early 90s. The invitees spilled on to the streets and ate an elaborate dessert - pheni - a large disc of crisp, lacy pastry then drenched in sweetened milk.
The menu is short, in keeping with their expertise pared down to a few chosen items, in contradistinction to rambling Mahabharatas. Prices are on the higher side for a’Darshini’ style establishment. Masala Dosa(Rs.70), 1 idly(Rs.17), 1 Vada(Rs.35), Coffee(Rs.18). A princely side is Butter at Rs.15.
Idly Vada - The undisputed star of this was the Vada - resplendent here since nearly four decades. A savoury doughnut made from deep fried urad dal(black lentil), here it is a technical marvel, gloriously crunchy, subtly seasoned and going like a dream with chutney and sambhar.
The Idly is not far behind. Didn’t look after your teeth and don’t have much left? Don’t worry - you won’t need much of it for the Idly here. It is soft enough to dissolve after a few bites. By itself, it does not have much taste, but vanishes deliciously with chutney and sambhar. The chutney here is my eternal favourite - even more potently wicked in the thicker take-away version. Its kick comes from a sharp blend of green chilli, tamarind, coconut and huri kadlay(fried Bengal gram) - the latter cheaper than the former. The sambar is a lighter blend and does not have much of a savoury heft.
Masala Dosa is better with the strong chutney and potato masala. The best dosas stand up to the taste even when consumed plainly by themselves - a hard thing to accomplish considering it’s just grain batter. Here the dosa when eaten by itself, is not memorable and does not have crisp-soft alchemy but you’ll have no difficulty polishing it off with the served accoutrements.
I’d had the Khara Bath(spiced semolina preparation) here in the past and knew it to be slick, smooth-’n-sharp so this time I had the Avalakki Bath. It’s flattened rice mixed with coconut, onion and peanuts - a pleasantly mild choice for those with hyperacidity issues, and less attractive to other clients.
Poori Saagu is just decent. The poori is softly serviceable, not having much of the crunchy soft magic that the best pooris can sport. The potato onion’saagu’ is mild with a touch of sweetness - you can safely skip this dish.
Kesari bath(sweet semolina dessert) is rich with ghee, lightly kissed with saffron, with nice cameos by raisins and cashews.
Decoction-forward chicory-laced coffee(only for those who like strong brews with an element of tartness) is a bracing finisher.
S.N Refreshments is an inspiration because it has maintained its quality for decades. The thronging crowds are testament to both the sharp kitchen and the dedicated tradecraft.
UPNWORLD