Somnath
Legends & History
Somnath at Patan, near Veraval in Gujarat is a pilgrimage centre held in great reverence throughout India and is considered to be the first of the 12 Jyotirlingas of Shiva. Somnath is situated on the south coast of Saurashtra and a hallowed province of present day Gujarat, mentioned even in Puranas.
Legend has it that the Kalabhairava Shivalinga (Bhairavanatha) at Prabhasa was worshipped by the Moon God, and hence Shiva here is referred to as Somnatha. The Skanda Purana describes the Sparsha Linga of Somnath as one bright as the sun, the size of an egg, lodged underground. The Mahabharata also refers to the Prabhasa Kshetra and the legend of the Moon worshipping Shiva.
Now for another digression! Legend goes that the moon was married to the 27 daughters of Daksha Prajapati. He was partial to Rohini, his favourite and neglected the others. An angered Daksha cursed him to wane into nothingness. A disturbed Chandra, came down to Prabhasa with Rohini and worshipped the Sparsha Linga of Somnath after which he was blessed by Shiva to grow and shine in the bright half. As the moon regained his light here, this town came to be known as Prabhasa. Brahma, one of the trinity, installed the Brahmasila, and paved way for the construction of the temple.
The glory and wealth of Somnath was described by the Arab traveller Al Biruni, and his accounts prompted visits by various invaders leading to repeated destruction and reconstruction of this famed temple.
In the year 1783, Queen Ahilyabhai Holkar built a new temple nearby, and in 1951, the president of India re-installed the Jyotirlingam of Shiva on the same Brahmasila on which earlier temples had been built. The present day temple is a majestic marble and stone structure. Entrance to the town of Somnath is through the Junagadh Gate. There are also the remains of an ancient Sun temple at Somnath. To the east of the town is the Bhalka Theertha connected with the legend of Krishna’s final departure from the mortal world.
Reaching there:
Veraval can be reached easily from Ahmedabad by express trains timed conveniently. The affluent traveller can reach from Keshod airport or the famous Diu airport. Accommodation facilities are reasonably good. Some important places of interest that can be clubbed with Somnath are Gir forest (Junagadh), Dwarka, Bet Dwarka and
Related pilgrimages Dwarka & Nageshwar:
While Gujarat state transport corporation runs many buses in these sectors, the quality of the buses are very poor. Some private buses are also available offering packaged tour of Somnath, Dwarka, Nageshwar and other notable pilgrimage centres in that province. In case you are travelling in a group especially with the family, I would recommend hiring a vehicle in order to minimize inconvenience and maximize the pleasure in visiting these sacred places. While driving from Diu, one has to take to the state highway (West Coast highway) which runs along the coast. The drive along the highway with the Arabian Sea coastline on one side and green patches of cultivated land (contrasted by barren lands and beaches) on the other side is an impression that I always carry in my memory. One can easily cover Somnath, Dwarka and Nageshwar in the same day. Porbandar, the land of our Mahatma Gandhi comes enroute.
Nageshwar, one of the 12 Shrines of Shiva is located on the route between Dwarka and the Bet Dwarka island, on the coast of Saurashtra in Gujarat. Reference to Nageshwar is also found in the Puranas.
Legend has it that a devotee by name Supriya, was attacked by a demon Daaruka, while in a boat and that the demon imprisoned him along with several others at his capital Daarukaavana, where he resided with his wife Daaruki. Shiva appeared in the form of a Jyotirlingam and vanquished the demon with the Paasupata Astram.
This Jyotirlinga manifestation is worshipped as Nageswara at this shrine.
This temple is not as famous as Somnath and is also less crowded. When I had visited the temple last, that was in late 1999, the temple was being renovated. I guess the temple renovation job must have been completed by now. A convenient way for the Mumbai traveller is to take the Saurashtra mail going right upto Okha and visit Dwarka, Bet Dwarka and Nageshwar.
So, if you are planning to visit Somnath, do not forget to conveniently club Dwarka and Nageshwar in the itinerary.