The captioned words ascribed to Jehangir, Mughal ruler centuries ago still hold good. Kashmir (more specifically Srinagar, Pahlgam & Gulmarg) is paradise on earth. Falls just short of paradise because of the security risks there. Indeed you need to be brave hearted (or foolish depending on whether you are a optimist or a pessimist) to be there.
The 1st glimpse of the Valley was over the skies from the flight (the alternate route is by road which is tedious as well as risky). The landscape is breathtaking - snow capped mountains protruding out of clouds with sparkling water flowing in the valleys covered with yellow mustard crop. It seemed as if the plane would crash into one of the peaks but we actually landed on plain surface at a height that seemed equal to other peaks in the vicinity. Stepping outside, we were greeted by a city under siege - uniformed men in all directions - some from army, some from BSF, CRPF, local police, well too many actually.
I was staying in a military guesthouse so accommodation wasn’t an issue. But security risks are greater if you are known to be interacting with the military there (we had an escort in mufti so that we don’t become glaring targets).
Day 1 - Srinagar
The city is built around the Dal Lake. Starting from my guesthouse, we first went to the temple of Adi Sankaracharya that is many centuries old. Makes me wonder how in that age with minimum facilities he managed to survive there. The temple houses a Shivalinga & is also a good viewing point since one can see the entire city from there. You need to walk some distance on steps for reaching there & this distance is increased by the fact that security restrictions ensure you get down much ahead than required. Next stop in the circular journey around Dal Lake was the lake itself. It is a pity that terrorism has affected tourism to such an extent. I had gone with my family/ relatives of 4 and we were the only ones in such a big lake!! The lake is clear and you can see the weeds underneath at 15 feet. Had lunch at Nathu’s Hotel nearby. Locals recommended the hotel but it took an hour to get my order. The hotel manager/ receptionist/ whoever was unconcerned & I would definitely not go there again. Since locals have recommended it, maybe you can try it out for yourself. Hopefully my bad experience was a one-off experience & it may actually turn out to be good for you. After lunch it was time for garden seeing. There are 3 gardens in the city around the lake - Mughal, Shalimar & one more. We went at the wrong time (March end) & the trees were barren. But May-June should be a fantastic viewing experience with flowers of myriad colors – red, yellow, blue, violet, white, .. - in full bloom. Last but not he least on the list was Hazratbal. A grand mosque with good interior design, a must see in Srinagar. It is advisable to plan such that you are back at the hotel/ alternate accommodation by sunset.
Day 2 - Pahalgam
Weather is fickle in the Valley. Initially we had planned for Gulmarg/ Sonmarg but roads were blocked due to snow. Hence, we proceeded to Pahalgam. Enroute to Pahlgam, we passed through ancient ruins of a temple built by Raja of Avantipuram. It has Karnataka’s architecture written all over it. There are conflicting reports on the reason for the ruin - some attribute it to an earthquake whereas some attribute it to terrorism. Beyond that there is a temple of the Sun God. There is a tank in the temple precincts that is home to lots and lots of fish. There is a big story to the presence of that fish. In short, if you feed the fish (there are guys there who will sell you the feed & the story too) & wish for something, it will happen. There is also a Gurudwara in the same compound. Pahalgam resembles any other hill station like Shimla/ Chail or Dehradun/ Mussorie. Nothing extraordinary about it except that history has it that some movies in earlier days were shot there. Also, it is the starting base of the Amarnath Yatra & so if you cannot make it to Amarnath it serves you as good if you see Pahalgam (‘Pahale Gaon’ meaning 1st village on the route).
Day 3 - Gulmarg
Sonmarg was still out of bounds but the road cleared for Gulmarg. There is a ropeway (called Gondola) that transports you to an intermediate length peak & a full length peak depending on how much you choose to pay. The full-length peak is accessible only to people between 15 and 65 subject to health considerations. We were recommended to go to the intermediate peak since it was not yet summer & there was enough snow available at that peak itself. And the entire 4 hours we spent there was simply like a dream - white sparkling smooth snow everywhere... too amazing to describe. I seriously doubt if anybody can closely describe the experience. You simply have to be there come what may. There are photo sessions (equipment given on hire) involving skiing, skating, sledges, .. The only problem is that there is a strict time limit to be followed and you have to keep track of it especially since the weather can change dramatically any time. We had lunch at a State Government hotel nearby & the food was too good. And for the film buffs, one song of Rajesh Khanna ‘Jai Jai Shiv Shankar’ was shot here.
Day 4 - Rest
The elders were too tired with the hectic schedule. So we rested for a day.
Day 5 - Shopping
Lal Chowk is in the news for all the wrong reasons - strikes, grenade launches, .. But it is also a decent shopping ground especially for Kashmiri souvenirs. A must shopping list in Srinagar would be
a) Saffron: Don’t buy the imitation stuff available at Dal lake that is cheap but nothing but colored grass. Real saffron is costly & preferable to buy it in reputed shops or on advice from a local.
b) Shawls: Utility value is less especially if you stay in a place like Mumbai but nevertheless good for displaying to others/ gifting
c) Kirfan - This is like a long overcoat made of wool & can be called the ’staple’ dress of Kashmiris both men and women. The men’s coats have smaller sleeves and are plain.
d) Cricket bats - Kashmiri willow is the only wood in the world (other than the British willow) used for manufacturing cricket bats. You can buy loads and loads of these (they are available damn cheap).
e) Namki Chai - Special salty tea which produces heat in the body. I didn’t like the thought of having salty tea so I cannot venture to recommend it to others.
f) Kahva Chai – This is another Kashmiri tea delicacy; much different from the Namki Chai & yeah I like it a lot
g) Kashmiri Silk - Saris usually, other dresses if you like
h) Mustard – I liked the fields covered in yellow hue more
i) Apples – How can anybody forget that
j) Other stuff like photos, cheap imitation jewelry, resembling Kashmiri culture, ..
The people are friendly & clearly were very happy to see visitors after a long spell of violence. Overall I am glad I visited the place & am sure you would also like it if only you can steel yourselves for it.