I have always wanted to visit Europe (thanks to the oh-so-perfect locations in Yash Chopra movies) and when I got a chance to visit Stuttgart, Germany, I jumped at it. On the flight, I dreamt of clean, cobbled streets, running down green slopes and sitting in a silver Merc. Well, things were not as perfect as I had imagined and I came away with a totally different impression.
City:
To begin, a little bit about the city of Stuttgart. This industrial city houses manufacturing bases of companies like Daimler Chrysler and Bosch. It has a painful history going back to the Second World War, when it was bombed to the ground. Must say, it has been rebuilt quite nicely and set me thinking that maybe some cities in India need to be bombed too.
Where to stay:
Since the city mostly receives business visitors, there are quite a few hotels around the airport and in downtown. One thing to keep in mind while selecting a hotel is that it should be close to a train or bus station. Unless of course, you have a silver Merc at your beck and call or are training for the marathon at the next Olympics.
The hotel rooms are unbelievably small (I kept thinking how an average American would live here) and it gave me one of the rare opportunities to thank God for my petite frame. Even then, I did feel claustrophobic at times and tried to spend as little time in the room as possible. Most hotels have complimentary breakfast, so dont forget to eat enough for lunch and dinner too (please see Food and Drink section for more details).
How to travel:
Imagine Mumbai 200 years from now. Everyone obeys traffic rules, the government has dedicated itself to improving travel services for citizens and the trains run on time. Impossible, right? Well, all this has already happened in Stuttgart. The efficiency of the train system would make a Mumbaiite die of envy and the punctuality would drive him mad. The rail network (its actually a tram that also passes through roads) connects the ends of Stuttgart and is divided into complicated zones, which I could not figure out even after traveling on it for 4 weeks. It is the cheapest mode of transport, at about 9 Euros for 3 days for 2 zones. Now, figure that out!
The streets in Stuttgart are quite narrow, but that doesnt discourage people from driving their cars at breakneck speed. Do try and take a drive in the Mercedes Smart car which looks like a rickshaw and rides like a jet.
Places to see:
Stuttgart is known for its museums, the most famous one being the Württemberg Museum, which was built in the 13th century, as an opulent, Renaissance style palace. Another place not be missed is the Mercedes Benz museum. It has free admission and here you get to see the first Benz, beautiful old Maybachs and even some concept models. But most impressive are the models of cars on sale at the museum store. They are perfectly crafted (German precision, my dear), with details like opening doors, steering wheels connected to tyres and foldable seats. And thats how I bought my first car - an open-top, cream-colored 1926 Maybach W5, also owned by the Maharaja of Patiala.
The Stuttgart zoo is also a good place to visit. It?s a huge facility, with animals like polar bears and penguins which are difficult to see outside of National Geographic. The Amazon section at the zoo houses exotic plants, marine life and animals from the Amazon rainforest and is a delight to wander through.
The Palladium Theatre is one of the most culturally happening places in Stuttgart and usually has some famous musical playing throughout the year. Unfortunately, watching Phantom of the Opera at 75 Euros is way beyond my league, so I just walked around the place and ogled at the theatre-goers in their beautiful suits and gowns.
Food and Drink:
Now, I am very open-minded about food and can eat practically anything. But German food really had me thinking about my whole attitude of being so adventurous. Firstly, in restaurants the menu is always in German, so you have no idea what you are eating. And then, if you are a non-vegetarian like me but have always eaten meat coated with spices, it is a shock to the senses when meat is presented in its unadorned form, barely cooked and not spiced. Needless to say, I didnt eat German food many times while I was there.
If the Germans torture you during the main course, they more than make up for it during dessert. Delectable, sinful desserts with fresh fruits and whipped cream. Soft, fluffy cakes with light-as-air toppings and chocolate mousse made with dark, bitter Belgian chocolate. Ahhh...heaven!
Other food options include Turkish and Italian cuisine, both of which are available easily. For me, Turkish beats Italian any day!
The wines available here are outstanding and the waiters will keep refilling your glass unless you ask them to stop. Everyone knows about German beer, so I wont elaborate on that, although it does have an interesting taste and is totally unlike our local brew.
People:
The recent economic slump in Germany has been particularly harsh on Daimler Chrysler (they made a measly $1 billion in profits last year) and as a result, the whole city of Stuttgart seems gloomy and depressed. Everyone from 13-year old teenagers to 70-year old seniors smokes heavily and the train tracks are littered with cigarette butts.
People are very unfriendly and since language is a barrier, it?s difficult to get them to talk unless you speak German. Stuttgart still does not have many foreigners as compared to other big cities in Germany, so if you are seeking attention and like being stared at, it is the place to go to!
Conclusion:
Well, I did see some nice cobbled streets in Stuttgart, but didnt get a chance to run down green slopes and ended up being in the passenger seat of a 15-year old Volvo. Honestly, after 2 weeks in Stuttgart, I couldnt wait to get back home. Back to the late-running trains, potholed roads and 1 billion people who dont care what I look like.