Surat stands on the River Tapti. It was once one of Western India’s major ports and trading towns. Parsis first settled in Surat in the 12th century; they had earlier been centred 100km south in sanjam, where they had fled from Persia five centuries before. In 1573 Surat fell to Akbar after a prolonged siege. It then became an important Moghul trading port and also the point of departure for Mecca-bound Muslim pilgrims.
Surat soon became a wealthy city. In 1612, the British established a trading factory, followed by the Dutch in 1616 and the French in 1664. It is no longer of any importance as a port, but it is a major industrial centre, especially for the manufacture of textiles and chemicals, and the processing and finishing of diamonds. Despite its industrial importance, Surat is of little interest to travellers, except those with a fascination for urban decay, mayhem, noise and pollution.
Surat is bordered on one side by the Tapti River, and on the other side by a brick wall. This wall was once an eight km long mud wall, but after the city was sacked in 1664 by the Maratha leader Shivaji , it was reconstructed in brick. The Railway Station, surrounded by many cheap hotels, is connected to the old fort beside the river by Surat’s few wide roads.
Built in 1546, the castle is on the riverbank, beside the Tapti Bridge. Since most of it has been given over to offices it is no longer of great interest, but there is a good view over the city and river from its bastions. There is a very run-down, overgrown and neglected English cemetery just beyond the Kataragama Gate. The Dutch cemetery is nearby. So also the Armenian cemetery.
Surat has a number of mosques and Jain, Hindu and Parsi Temples. Swally was the old port for Surat. It was off swally in 1615 that Portugese colonial aspirations in India were ended by the British Navy.
Vallod is a small town, about 45 Km from Surat. Vedchhi is 50 km from Surat. Vedchhi is the centre of Gandhian institution. There is the Institute for Total Revolution established by the devoted Gandhian, Narayan Desai, son of Mahadev Desai, who was a Private secretary to Mahatma Gandhi. The Gandhi Vidyapeeth is next to the Institute for Total Revolution.
Surat was not a very clean city, but not so now. Thanks to the efforts of a Municipal Commissioner for Surat, the city gives a very modern and clean look with wide roads.
For me and my family Surat has no meaning and significance without Vedchhi. Bubu Apa ( Uttara Ben ), my wife’s elder sister was married to Narayan Bhai. She is no more, but Vedchhi is full of her memory. Long live Bubu Apa !