Tirupati

Every Indian would be familiar with this temple town and its deity, Lord Balaji or Sri Venkateshwara in Andhra Pradesh.

The hill town Tirumala and as many as 17 temples in India are managed by Tirumala Tirupati Devasthanams (TTD). This autonomous body employing more than 14000 people is one of the most efficient organizations in terms of public service. They not only maintain Tirumala without non-vegetarian food and alcohol but also do whatever possible to efficiently manage the millions of pilgrims who visit these sacred Seven hills (representing seven heads of Adhisesha). They also provide free food to more than 3000 people everyday.

Popularly believed to be a Swayambu deity, this lord finds a mention even in the oldest of Hindu scriptures – Rig Veda. To date, thousands of pilgrims offer their hair to this lord, making Tirupati the largest dealer in Human hair. The proceeds of the everyday hair auctions are donated to the temple.

One of the religious believes for the practice of tonsuring hair is to help the Lord Balaji redeem his debt that he had taken from Kubera in one of his incarnations.

The temple was supposedly constructed by the Pallava kings in the 10th century or before, using typical Dravidian architecture. The 22 carat gold plated gopuram is very predominant and remains etched in memory.

For good, this deity is believed by many people to incorporate both aspects – Vaishnavism and Hinduism. So followers of both sects as well as other Indian cultures pilgrimage this Lord.

I have visited this holy shrine umpteen times and each visit provides a very satisfactory peace and calm to the mind, in spite of waiting for Darshan for hours together. I am also one of the lucky ones to get married in Saptagiri.

By Road:

Chennai (130 kms) is the best base station for people coming from all over India. Bangalore is also motorable at 260 kms.

Tamil Nadu Tourism (TTDC) and Andhra Pradesh tourism (APSRTC) operate one day trips from Chennai to Tirumala and back everyday. This tour is available on all weekdays.

TTDC Bus starts at around 6.00 am in Chennai and comes back at 11.00 pm (could get delayed if the Darshan takes time). Tour includes Tirumala and Tiruchanur (Padmavati temple)

A/C costs around 750 Rs per person and Non A/c costs 550 Rs per person (tariff includes vegetarian breakfast, lunch and 100 Rs Darshan ticket at the temple)

Every Taxi operator in Chennai has a standard package available to go to Tirupati and come back. One day and two day standard tariffs are quoted. They vary from 1500 to 3000 Rs for a Non A/C car for the entire trip.

By Train:

All trains coming to Chennai from Mumbai stop at Renigunta, 15 kms from Tirupati. Similarly, trains coming south from Delhi / Kolkata stop at Gudur, 100 kms from Tirupati.

Tirupati also has a small station on its own which is connected to Chennai with two trains everyday. One train leaves Chennai at around 6.00 am and another in the afternoon. One way journey time is app 3 hours.

By Air:

Tirupati is on paper connected to Chennai, Bangalore and Hyderabad.

Indian Airlines flies everyday or twice a week between Hyderabad and Tirupati at around 2500 Rs (one way). They also connect twice a week to Chennai during some months in a year depending on their plan (1500 Rs).

Air Deccan has plans to connect Tirupati with Bangalore. Not sure whether this has been implemented.

Traveling from Foot hills to Tirumala:

TTD runs ordinary and deluxe buses to Tirumala every few minutes from their Bus station located just opposite to Tirupati station. The buses take around 30 minutes to travel the 18 kms road uphill. Taxis are also available everywhere in the town.

TTD also has direct buses which go uphill to Tirumala from various towns in South India including Chennai, Bangalore and Hyderabad.

But I think the best way to climb up to Tirumala is by walk (if that is possible). For an average and healthy person, it would take around 3 to 4 hours from the foot hills to reach the arch in Tirumala including multiple short rests for refreshments and recharging.

The strenuous portion is the first 1 hour to climb to the Kali temple. This portion of the climb is on steps all the way up and it does take a lot of energy out of you. But there are refreshment stalls all along the path way up to Tirumala.

Once you are past Kali temple, it is a casual stroll in some sections, a brisk walk in others mixed with many short climbs on steps all the way up. You have the option of depositing your baggage at the TTD office in foothills before you climb. They will return it to you on reaching Tirumala.

Stay:

There are various options available in Tirumala. TTD has thousands of rooms available for pilgrims to stay at very nominal rates (many rooms are less than 100 Rs).

Good private options in Tirumala include the Woodlands hotel and Mayura Saptagiri hotel run by Karnataka tourism. Both are popular for their good food also.

In downtown Tirupati, Bheemas Paradise and Kalyan Residency are good hotels. Highland holidays have also opened a small property in Tirupati.

What time of the year:

Tirupati is crowded all around the year. But the crowd is generally more during the New Year, their Annual festival – Brahmotsavam in September, government holidays, during summer vacation period and during week ends (that leaves very little scope for you, right?)

From my experience, the time just before Brahmotsavam (i.e. august) or just after the festival (i.e. October) is the best option due to two reasons. One the crowd is comparatively less. Two the climate is very pleasant (Summers are really hot in Tirupati).

If you are booking ahead for one of the many special darshan options offered by TTD, then it is good to go any time of the year. Last but not least is the option of finding somebody in Tirumala, who can take you past all the procedures.

Darshan:

You can also book the tickets at their office in Chennai. Shortly they are going to start online bookings.

For everyday darshan tickets from TTD, you would have to pay and get the hi-tech collar stuck on to your cuff at the foot hills or at their counters in Tirumala. This feature lets you report to darshan at the specified time. You can have a darshan in less than 2 hours from entering the queue. Tickets cost 40 / 50 Rs.

Around the hills:

The Padmavati temple located in Tiruchanur is another holy shrine.

Kalahasti is a holy Shiva temple known for its Navagraha links (Raagu or Kedhu ?). It is located 50 kms from Tirupati on one of the roads to Chennai.

There are many more temples for which TTD arranges day trips from Tirumala at 50 to 100 Rs per person.

Akasha Ganga and Papavinasam falls are worthwhile to see in Tirumala. Chandragiri fort (12 kms) and the Zoological park at the foothills are places worth a visit around Tirupati.

Have a good darshan of the lord and get blessed.

Visit http://www.tirumala.org for more additional information.