She
lies awake on the deathbed looking with her still eyes on the door which led to
the world outside her purview, she has never stepped out and she never desired
to… but today she waits for her grandson to fulfill the promise, which only he
can afford, to take her to a place that can solace all her pain and can instill
the belief of reaching the lord… the only place she wants to reach before she
exhales her last breath, a place she knows she will get "Moksha"
(salvation). A place we know as "Kashi" "Banaras" or “Varanasi”!
What made her believe in it so much? What made her assume that it will lead her to
heaven for sure? Was it the temple hymns, Ganges
shine, mantras rhyme, what? The Ghats that she played onto, the thin lanes she
ran barefooted, the Katthak thap, the music class, the roadside chat, the noise
of bells… somehow she could never disconnect herself from all these and no one
can, no one ever will. Monoos great granny always wanted to return to this
place and when his father shared this reason as to "why he chose to settle
down here”, monoo found it weird but acknowledged that it was indeed the best
thing his father did.
Monoo always wished that he could
recollect his childhood in that city but couldnt. All he could vaguely
remember was that how his dad lifted him to help him reach the Bells of the
old Vishwanath Temple - the holy shrine of Lord
Shiva. His dad told him "Shiva used to reside in Varanasi". He couldnt comprehend
because he thought Shiva stayed on the Himalayas.
Though it was a usual practice of his dad to take him to Durga
Temple, Manas Mandir, Kaal Bhairav,
Markande mahadev and many more, the one close to his heart was Sankat Mochan
Temple, dedicated to Lord
Hanuman, as he loved him as a lord and liked the presence of Monkeys in the
temple. All these temples were built in different period by different people,
based on their beliefs. Today temples have instilled the belief stronger with
miracle time and again.
Monoo’s favorite pastime during his
teenage was sitting at one of the 100 Ghats with dangling legs sharing
the heartache with his only friend Mantu every morning. As it was the custom
for them to acknowledge the sunrise together during summer vacation and then
cross the Ganges to take a dip on the other shore of Ganga.
And sometime stand with folded hands during the grand Ganga Aarti, which
brought tears to his eyes. Few things which is a must do by everyone who
travels there. There were numerous ghats and every ghat had its own story to
tell like Dashashwamedh Ghat where, Lord Brahma sacrificed ten horses in a
yajna here. But Monoo was more attached to Manikarnik Ghat and felt at peace
watching the dead bodies being cremated. (One of the story about it is that
Goddess Parvati hid her earrings (manikarnik), and asked lord Shiva to find
them, saying that they had been lost on the banks of Ganga and the idea
behind the fib was that Lord Shiva would then stay around, searching forever
for the lost earrings. So whenever a body gets cremated at the Manikarnik Ghat,
Lord Shiva asks the soul whether it has seen the earrings.) Some of the other
important Ghats were Harishchandra Ghat , Tulsi Ghat and Assi Ghat.
Monoo always had an inclination
towards Art and Literature. He grew up listening to the stories of great
writers who lived in this city from Kabir to Tulsidas who wrote much of his
Ramayana here. He was inspired by many contemporary writers like Jayshankar
Prasad, Munshi Premchand and Hazari Prasad Dwivedi. And thats when the writer
within him was born, who started writing poetries at the age of fifteen and
there were many other notables who kept on inspiring him. His Mother noticed
that, Monoo ensured not to miss performance on the Ghats
and the old theatre Nagri Natak Mandli, during Ganga Mahatsov, Tulsi
Mahatsov and various other festivals (open music concerts) which celebrated the
traditional styles of classical and folk culture in the city… where culture
poured, artist roared. Pt. Ravi Shankar,
Ustad Bismillah Khan, Girija Devi, Siddheshwari Devi, Gopi Krishna, Pt. Kishan
Maharaj, were the strong pillars who kept alive the art of Varanasi. His Mom
could see the artist within him yearning for a guiding light and he was sent to
lane where culture lied, he began his theatre journey and quenched his thirst
of being the true "Banarasi"
Monoo couldnt make it to his dream
university where his mother, sister and brother finished their EDUCATION from;
the Banaras Hindu University
established by Pandit Madan Mohan Malviya in 1916. The University has the
largest campus in Asia with only the main
campus spread over 1300 acres. People from all over the world came to study the
hundreds of courses they offered in various disciplines; whether it’s the
modern disciplines of technology or the old Vedic studies. What surprised him
the most was various scholars from Germany who studied the Sanskrit
Vedic studies. The Bharat Kala Bhavan, virtual treasure trove of Hindu and Buddhist history was his favorite
place to hang out along with Maitri- a café for young couple to hang around.
Monoo headed to Bangalore after he finished his schooling in
1999 and took up a management course. He is well settled today in one of the
posh localities of Bangalore but what he still yearns for are the little
things of his hometown Kashi… the traffic which never stopped, the narrow
lanes to the Ghats which even let the scooter pass... the famous banarasi pan
which he couldnt try, the roadside spicy chaats which made him cry! What he
misses the most is the people of banaras, who are majorly very content with
life and are happy with what they have. They value their principles and rituals; they look
for happiness in small gestures. Not that they are far from modernism; but they
still have that Indian-ness in their mannerism. They still reach out on
your call; even if you are a stranger they wont mind helping you at all. They
welcome you with open arms to their home which is called Varanasi,
Banaras, Kashi…
And thats why Monoo wants to go back
"Home" to a city which is
"Older than history, older than tradition, older even than legends, and looks twice as
old asall of them put together” - Mark Twain
I tribute my 25th review to my city of Origin.