We arrived in Venice by train. The first sight which greets you as you emerge from the station is an amazing contrast to typical station surroundings. Outside the station is the Grand Canal and directly opposite is one of the many pituresque churches. This view sets the mood of the day and the ride on the water bus to St. Marks confirms it.
St Mark’s square is unspoilable, whether it is seen in bleak February, which is when we first went, or seething with tourists in August it is the ’centre’ of Venice and has two of the most beautiful places to visit. St Mark’s Basilica is the main attraction of the piazza, somewhat reminiscent of a overly decorated cake it is the the supposed resting place of the remains of St Mark, the gospel writer. In St Mark’s the mosaic floor undulates, assuming the shape of the gentle waves which have lapped underneath it for centuries. In contrast to many other churches, especially the most important in Jerusalem, St Mark’s has a marked religious atmosphere. It is as if the place has absorbed something of the worship throughout its history. A small icon, the Virgin of Victory, caught my attention for the same reason. It may be studded with precious jewels and decorated with strings of pearls but it is not that alone which makes it special. There are many other delights in the Basilica.
The Doges palace is another must see. The political centre of ancient Venice is highly decorative from the grand staircase with its eye catching floor to the amazing paintings absolutely everywhere. The paintings on the ceilings are absolutely spectacular and one wonders, with aching neck, why they they put them in such a stupid place. But what is probably the the most impressive painting in the world is found in the great hall, Tintoretto’s Paradiso. If you are unaware that it is there and discover it on turning, as I did, the effect is sensational.
February isn’t perhaps the best time to admire the view from the top of the rather ugly tower which dominates St Mark’s square but even on a cold and windy day the view is spectacular. Having an expensive coffee (hint - if you want a ’normal’ cup of coffee rather than the miniscule espressos ask for American or cafe grande con aqua calda - large coffee with hot water- don’t know if it is correct Italian but it worked for me) we watched wooden walkways being laid out in the square ready for the floods then headed of to see more sights. Everywhere you look in Venice is beautiful - I used 3 films that day and even bought paints and started trying to paint when I got home because it was so inspirational and I wanted to capture the atmosphere as well as the views.
We were shown round Venice by a friend who took us to lunch in one of the many small restaurants. Italians take their food very seriously and lunch was a long drawn out affair. It was delicious but I would rather have spent the time sight seeing. Venice is not really the place to shop unless you are quite wealthy. There are many small exclusive boutiques and the usual touristy shops. The Rialto bridge has market stalls with Italian chic at more affordable prices. In summer St. Marks square is also full of tourist traders but in February - just pigeons. As we took a last look at it before catching the water bus the waters had risen and it was flooded and the sun reflected off the gold on St Marks onto the water. Pure magic. If you can only go one place in the world choose Venice.