Varanasi
Introduction
When I got my transfer to Varanasi in 1995, I was more than a little apprehensive. Although I belong to Allahabad, which is just 120 KM away, I had never been to Varanasi. I thought it was a very backward and old city. I had heard four things about Varanasi. The first was that Kashi Vishwanath Temple was located there in narrow lanes close to the banks of the river Ganges. Secondly that Varanasi was one of the oldest living cities of India with almost the entire city was on the banks of the river. Third that an old and once famous university the Benaras Hindu University was located there. Lastly there were a lot of thugs in Varanasi.
I thought I would probably be going back in time by about 15-20 years if I went to Varanasi, however all my apprehensions were in vain. It was a wonderful three years that I spent in Varanasi and wouldn’t mind going back there for another tenure anytime.
General Information
Varanasi (Old name Benaras) is also called Kashi. It is located on the banks of the river Ganges. It gets its name from the rivers Varuna in the North and Asi in the South which flow into the Ganges. With expansion in recent years however, the city has spread beyond these rivers.
It has a small cantonment which houses a Infantry Regiment Training Centre and the main railway Station is the Cantonment Railway Station. Varanasi city railway Station is called Manduadih and is off the main line. It is connected to Lucknow and Allahabad in West and Gorakhpur, Gaya and Patna in the East. It however does not fall on the main Delhi Calcutta railway line, which passes through Mughalsarai (a big railway junction), which is about 20 KM from Varanasi.
Varanasi has an airport, which is located at Babatpur, some 22 KM from the city. There is a daily flight from and to Delhi via Varanasi. There are a lot of 3 and 5 Star Hotels for the large No of tourists who flock here. For the middle Class like me, there are a number of dharmasalas
Places of Interest
The Ghats. The ancient city of Varanasi is situated along the East Bank of Ganges between Asi and Varuna Rivers. In Varanasi the Ganges flows from South to North taking a U-Turn. All along the river there are steps leading up to the city. The Ganges is very deep in Varanasi (about 150 feet at places) and the specialty is that it never leaves the Eastern bank and recedes. It may go down the steps in the dry season but never leaves the bank. The Ghats look very beautiful when you go by boat early in the morning. It is a picture of serenity, with Bhajans and vedic chants ranting the air from the innumerable temples that dot the Ghats. The Dasashwamedh ghat is the main ghat where people come for a dip in the Ganges, but one must beware of the Pandas. Mani karnika Ghat is that ghat where people bring the dead for the last rites. The dead fom all over the country are brought here as it is considered the most sacred place for the last journey. The funeral pyres burn continuously here and many have to wait for hours due to the heavy rush.
Sarnath The Buddhist township of Sarnath is located 12 KM from Varanasi. It is said that Lord Buddha gave his first sermon here after attaining enlightenment. Ashoka’s Dharma Chakra and the Lion Capital (Ashoka Pillar) was located here and is now stored in Sarnath Museum along with a number of other antique statues and memorabilia. There is an ancient Stupa here. A hugh park has been developed around the stupa with a lot of Buddhist temples around run by various Buddhist countries. The main Buddhist trust is run by Sri Lankans. It is a beautiful place to visit.
Kashi Vishwanath Temple Kashi Vishwanath temple and Gyan Vapi Masjid are located adjacant to each other in a narrow lane close to Dasashwamedh Ghat. The area is like a fortress with high barricades around Gyan Vapi Masjid and a Company of Para Military forces guarding it. Gyan Vapi Masjid was cosntructed on the foundation of the bigger of the two temple located here. It was demolished in the mogul period. The Kashi Vishwanath temple is dedicated to Lord Shiva and is a very important pilgrimage centre for the Hindus. The dome of the Kashi Vishwanath Temple has pure gold plating. A modern Vishwanath Temeple has been constructed in the Benaras Hindu University Campus.
Sankat Mochan Sankat Mochan is famous ancient temple devoted to Lord Hanuman. There are hundreds of monkeys here and devotees offer laddoos to them.
Benaras Hindu University (BHU) is a very well planned university laid out in a beautiful campus spread out in over a 1000 acres of land. It is a mini city in itself and is self contained.
Diesel Locomotive Works (DLW) India’s prestigious factory where Diesel Locomotives are constructed is located in Varanasi. It caters of the requirement of the Indian Railways and also the export market.
Tulsi Manas Mandir Tulsi Manas Mandir is located near the Asi Ghat. It is said that Tulsidas wrote the Ramacharitmanas here. Relics of Tulsidas are preserved here. The mandir is looked after the mahant of Sankat Mochan. He is a Hydraulic Engineer and was a Professor in BHU. He is undertaking research to purify the Ganges.
Water Falls There are a No of water falls with in 70-80 KM of Varanasi which a re good picnic spots. Sidhnathdari, Lakhania falls, Windom falls and Rajdari.
Jantar Mantar A jantar mantar similar to the one located in Delhi has been cosntructed in the Sanskrit University Campus. It is used to give astrological teaching s to the students of the university.
Besides these places, there are many many other attractions too in Varanasi. The Ramlila, and Bharat Milap of Varanasi are famous. During Ganga Dussehra the entire Ganges and the steps along the ghats are lit up with thousands and thousands of lamps. And of course the city is full of Bulls roaming the city streets and narrow lanes. Sometimes you can see a bull charging along and you really have to run for cover to save yourself.
Who can forget the famous Banarasi Silk Sarees and Brocades which are every women’s dream. The sarees are manufactures in the villages around Varanasi by local silk weavers which are in demand not only in India but across the world.
Bhadohi and Mirzapur which are close to Varanasi are famous for their carpet industry. The carpets manufactured here are exported all over the world.
Varanasi is a city which never sleeps. Go to the ghats at anytime of the day or night and you wil hear some chanting of hymns or some tourists roaming around.
There is a saying in Varanasi : “Saanp, Sidhi, Sandh, Sanyasi , Jo inse bache who Kashi Vasi.” (Snakes, Steps, Bulls and Sadhus, any one who can escape from these is a resident of Kashi ) These are the four most dangerous things here.