I have been toying with the idea or writing a review on my home town Allahabad for a while. I kept putting it off, because, although Allahabad is unique in many ways, it has nothing much to offer as a tourist destination. Never-the-less, I decicded that I must highlight the plus points of the city as it is a religious destination of immense importance to the Hindus. Although Allahabad is my home town and I was born there, I have not stayed there for more than a month or two every year over the past 48 years.
Allahabad or Prayag as it was known in the past, lies in the exact centre of India longitudinally and the Indian Standard Time (IST) is the local time at Allahabad. It is a sleepy town, which has not changed much over the years. It is an ideal place for retired people to settle, as, the pace of life is very slow.
It lies in the Gangetic plains of North India at Triveni Sangam or the confluence of three rivers considered pious by Hindus Ganga, Yamuna and Saraswati. Although only two Ganga and Yamuna are visible today, it is believed that Saraswati , the River of Enlightenment, which existed thousands of years ago, still discharges its water at the confluence through some underground source. During the lean months the Ganges is very narrow , muddy and shallow, however, during the rainy season its banks span over a kilometer and it becomes a ravaging and wild river. The Yamuna is deep and wide all year long with clear green waters. If you stand at the sangam, you can clearly see the distiction between the waters of the two rivers where they meet. The Hindus wash away their ‘sins’ and consider themselves cleansed after having a dip at the holy Sangam. It is also widely believed by the Hindus that immersion of the ashes of the dead at Sangam gives them eternal salvation.
Magh mela is held here every year in January-February. Every six years Ardh Kumbh and every 12 years Maha Kumbh mela is held here. People from all over the world converge here during Maha Kumbh Maha Kumbh is the largest religious congregation in the world. A mini city springs up here during these melas with elaborate arrangements for bathing and stay of devotees. Renowned astrologers calculate the holiest time to enter the water and draw up a ’holy Dip Schedule’. Millions of people take a dip at Sangam on ‘Sankrant’ at the appointed time. The entire city wears a festive look and ‘hawans’, ‘kirtans’, ‘pravachans’ can be seen and heard all around.
A Fort built by Akbar in 1583 stands on the Northern bank of the Yamuna about a kilometer from Samgam. A famous Ashoka pillar dating back to 232 BC is located in the Fort. The fort is presently under the control of the military authorities.
On the Eastern side of the fort is the Patalpuri Temple which contains the famed “Undying Banyan Tree” also known as Aksahi Vat. This tree was mentioned by the Chinese pilgrim Huen Tsang, who narrated tales of pilgrims sacrificing their lives by leaping to their deaths from it in order to seek salvation.
Close to the fort is located the “Bade Hanumanji”. This idol of Hanuman is reclining and not upright. The story goes that some traders were carrying the idol to be installed in a temple. At sunset they put it down there for the night and planned to move on the next day, but hanuman refused to rise from there. It is said that the Ganges does not recede till it immerses Bade Hanumanji each year.
The posh shopping centre of Allahabad is the Civil Lines. It is an area of broad avenues with adequate parking spaces and Raj-era bungalows. These bunglows are slowly giving way to modern and a few high rise buildings.
The old city area known as Chowk is across the railway line from Civil Lines. It is extremely crowded with a maze of narrow lanes where you can easily get lost unless you know you way around. Rickshaws are the main mode of travel in this area.
The Nehru family home, Anand Bhavan is locate here and houses a museum depicting the life of the Nehrus and their involvement in the struggle for Indian Independence. There is a planetorium located in the precincts of Anand Bhawan. Close by is the Swaraj Bhawan the ancestral home of the Nehrus where Indira Gandhi was born. This is also maintained as a museum.
The Allahabad University at one time boasted of having the maximum people in the Civil Services. Allahabad had become a centre of learning. People from all the adjoining areas used to converge on Allahabad for education and to prepare for competitions. Today Coaching Institutes of all genes have sprung up all over the city and it has become a big business.
The Uttar Pradesh High Court and AGs office and the Army’s CDA Pensions is is located in Allahabad. More than half the residents of Allahabad are working in one of these three offices. The other half are small time businessmen, educationists and retired personnel.
There are a few other attractions like Khusro Bag, all Saints Cathederal, Allahabad Museum, Hathi Park, Minto Park, Mankameshwar Temple, Nag Basuki Temple.